, (Abkhazian Аҧсны) - Republic of Abkhazia; a state in the western part of the South Caucasus, on the southeastern coast of the Black Sea. It consists of 7 historical regions (the 7 stars on the state flag remind of this) - Sadzyn (Dzhigetia), Bzypyn, Gumma, Abzhua, Samyrzakan, Dal-Tsabal, Pskhu-Aibga.

The vast majority of the current population of Abkhazia was granted Russian citizenship. Abkhazia issues its own postage stamps. The Russian ruble is used as the monetary unit; in addition, from September 26, 2008, the National Bank of Abkhazia introduced commemorative and anniversary coins of the Abkhazian monetary unit apsar into circulation.

Geography

Abkhazia (apsny), located in the northwestern part of Transcaucasia between the Psou and Ingur rivers, in the southwest it is washed by the Black Sea. The coast, more than 210 km long, is slightly indented, and wide pebble beaches are often found.

The climate of Abkhazia is determined by its coastal position and the presence of high mountain ranges. On the coast the climate is humid subtropical. The average temperature in January is from +2 to +4 °C. The average temperature in August is from +22 to +24. The average precipitation is about 1500 mm per year. The mountains have a clearly defined altitudinal zone, which causes large differences in the climate of different mountainous areas. The subtropical climate in the mountains extends to approximately 400 m. Eternal snow lies at an altitude of 2700-3000 m.

Most of the territory of the republic (about 75%) is occupied by the spurs of the Main (Water Dividing) Range, which borders Abkhazia from the north - the Gagra, Bzyb, Abkhaz and Kodori ranges. The highest point of the ridge is Mount Dombay-Ulgen (4046 m). The passes leading to Abkhazia through the Main Range are Klukhorsky (2781 m), Marukhsky (2739 m) and others.

From the southeast, the Colchis Lowland enters Abkhazia, gradually narrowing. A narrow strip of lowland stretches along the coast northwest of the Kodor River. Between the mountains and lowlands there is a belt of hilly foothills. Karst phenomena are developed in Abkhazia (Voronya, Abrskyla, Anakopiya caves, etc.). In Abkhazia there is the deepest karst cave in the world - the Krubera-Voronya cavity (depth 2080 meters), located not far from Gagra. Six kilometers from Gagra there is the picturesque Mount Mamzyshkha.

The rivers belong to the Black Sea basin. The most significant of them - Kodor (Kudry), Bzyb, Kyalasur, Gumista - are high-water, rich in hydropower (potential hydropower resources are over 3.5 million kW). The rivers are fed primarily by rain and snow; There is a spring-summer flood. Lakes Ritsa and Amtkyal are located in the mountains

Flora and fauna

Flora of Abkhazia (includes more than 2000 species of plants. Over 55% of the republic's area is covered with forests. In the Black Sea region, which is most developed for cultivated vegetation (subtropical, industrial, fruit and ornamental crops, grain crops, etc.) and in the gorges, there are separate tracts of broad-leaved forests (hornbeam, hornbeam, oak, chestnut, etc.) and alder forests. At Cape Pitsunda there is a grove of relict Pitsunda pine. The mountains are dominated by beech trees (in some places with boxwood in the second layer), on the upper part of the slopes there are fir and spruce forests. subalpine crooked forests, alpine meadows and rocky-crushed vegetation begin.

Named after the village of the same name, which was the residence of an Abkhaz prince in the 19th century. The local grape variety Isabella has a refined and unique taste; it was obtained as a result of selection of the European variety Vitis Vinifera and the American Vitis Labrusca.

Sukhumi winemakers began mass production of Lykhny wine in 1962, since then the products have confidently occupied their niche among brands familiar to the whole world and have won numerous awards that confirm their high status.

History of winemaking in Abkhazia

Archaeologists have evidence that ancient civilizations in these places were already familiar with winemaking. The label of “Apsny” (wine considered the soul of the Abkhazian feast) is decorated with the image of one of the finds - the “Bombora wine drinker”.

For more than 50 centuries, the Abkhaz people have preserved recipes and methods of storing wine. The tradition of burying clay vessels in the ground is still alive today, because in such conditions wine acquires an unusually refined and harmonious bouquet. This method of preserving and ripening a drink made from grapes has survived thousands of years, and now there are ceramic containers in almost every Abkhazian estate.

For a long time, natural Abkhazian wines could only be tasted from home winemakers, who carefully preserved and passed on family recipes from generation to generation. Industrial production dates back only to 1925, but winemaking became competitive only after reconstruction at the Sukhumi winery in the mid-twentieth century and the introduction of an Italian technological line.

The result of innovation was the new “Amra”, “Chegem”, “Dioscuria”, etc. But the traditional varieties, loved by consumers and highly rated by experts, did not leave the assembly lines.

Features of Abkhazian wines

Winegrowers grow about 60 varieties of grapes in these parts; both white and red ones ripen equally well. The most common and best for winemaking are Auasyrkhuaa, Tsolikouri, Kachich and the Isabella variety (Akhardan in Abkhazian), which became widespread in these parts only in the 19th century.

Abkhazian Isabella differs from the same variety growing in other regions of the world. The vine, once imported from America, was crossed with local wild grapes. The result is a variety that gives wines a unique taste and aroma, with a pronounced strawberry aftertaste.

The high quality of any wine from Abkhazia is predetermined by nature itself. Experts assure that the familiar grape varieties in these places acquire a slightly different, more intense taste. There is nothing to argue about. The resort subtropical conditions of Abkhazia are characterized by higher humidity than in other places in the western Caucasus, summers are hotter and winters are milder.

These generous gifts of nature - sun and warmth - allow the berries to be filled with juice and sugar, their unusual taste makes the wine unique. Even the same variety of vine grown in different regions of Abkhazia differs in taste and aroma. That is why winemakers have such a wide range of wines, and white or red semi-sweet, dessert or dry wines do not require flavorings or additives in the production.

After the harvest, which lasts from October to mid-December for the winegrowers of Abkhazia, it is the turn of the winemakers.

Composition and bouquet of wine

The first wine that began to be produced at the Sukhumi winery on an industrial scale was the red dessert “Bouquet of Abkhazia”. Since then, the brand has been considered the hallmark of the republic. The drink made from Isabella berries has a deep dark color, for which the Abkhazians themselves call it “black wine.” Strength - 16% vol.

Other drinks of Sukhumi winemakers have also become iconic. Connoisseurs note that all varieties are easy to drink, distinguished by freshness and deep aroma. Some even divide them into “masculine” (aged, with a tart, enveloping taste) and “feminine” (sweet and aromatic). The Abkhazians themselves consider this division to be conditional. In these parts, wine has been considered a divine gift, a balm for the soul, since ancient times.

Most of the winemakers’ assortment is named after the geographical places where grapes are grown and in honor of places glorified in the legends of the Caucasian people, and simply beautiful corners of the republic:

1. Lykhny is a village in the Gudauta region. Once upon a time there was a princely residence here, and from here the spread of Christianity in Abkhazia began. Natural semi-sweet wine “Lykhny” is considered the basis of any (not just festive) table. It is made from the locally grown Isabella variety with high sugar content of berries. The finished drink contains 3-5% sugar and has a strength of 9-11% vol. Compliance with the technological process allows you to obtain a velvety harmonious taste with an original subtle bouquet of strawberry aroma.
2. Apsny is the name of Abkhazia in the Abkhaz language, and translated it sounds like the Country of the Soul. Red semi-sweet Abkhazian wine “Apsny” has been produced since 1970. It is obtained by fermenting the must of several grape varieties - Merlot, Saperavi and Cabernet Sauvignon. The drink has a pleasant pomegranate color, a harmonious bouquet and a velvety taste. Strength 9-11% vol.
3. Psou, a fast and high-water river on the Abkhaz-Russian border, gave its name to another wine. “Psou” is a white semi-sweet drink with a strength of 9-11% vol. The history of its production goes back to the distant past. The Abkhazians made the classic version from Tsolikouri berries. For industrial production, a blend of Riesling and Aligote is used. The traditional fresh taste and floral aroma add splendor to the drink. Production of "Psou" began in 1962.
4. Already in the 21st century, other “geographical” brands of Sukhumi wines appeared: dry red “Chegem”, white dry “Dioscuria”, semi-dry red “Eshera”, etc. All of them are produced from selected varieties of local grapes.

Abkhazian winemakers pay special attention to preserving the traditions of hospitality. Wine is an important part of rituals and is considered a symbol of celebrations: religious and secular.

According to an ancient ritual, the bride entering a new house was supposed to hear the groom's song. This wedding song is called Ouredada (Radeda). As a symbol of this hymn to the newlyweds, a new variety of light natural dry was developed in 2002. It was named after the classic rite - “Radeda”, the wine is made from the iconic local variety of Isabella berries in compliance with winemaking traditions. The strength of the drink with a bright strawberry aftertaste and aroma is no higher than 10% vol.

How to spot a fake

Like any product that is gaining demand, the wines of Abkhazia have become the object of underground production. It is not so easy to recognize a fake by external signs, and the quality of the bottled drink differs radically from the original.

When purchasing, you should first pay attention to the label. The original samples used by the Sukhumi Winery can be viewed on the official website. When you open the bottle, pay attention to the cork. Bottles sealed by the manufacturer have elongated corks, which are marked that they are also made in Abkhazia.

Even during a vacation in the Caucasus, you should purchase high-quality Abkhaz wine “”, “Bouquet of Abkhazia”, “Psou” and any other at official sales points, and not in markets or from hand.

How to use it correctly

To appreciate the bouquet of aromas and tastes of Abkhazian wine, many lovers go on a trip - travel agencies organize separate wine tours. Experts have compiled a set of rules for using this or that variety. Red wine “Apsny” is semi-sweet and is served chilled with desserts and fruits, and warm with meat. White semi-sweet “Psou” is suitable for starting a meal - with appetizers and salads. “Lykhny” is for meat dishes, and “Eshera” is for hot chicken dishes.

They say that when God distributed the lands to the nations, a resident of this country could not come for the allotment because he was receiving guests in his house. And then God gave him the corner that he had left for himself. This was the reward for hospitality. And it is in these lands that God rests.
Abkhazia lives like a paradise in our memory. Perhaps because of the proximity to two endless elements - the sea and the mountains - every news heard here seems oceanic. Apsny in Abkhazian means “land of the soul”. There are many miracles here: the tomb of one of Christ’s disciples, a hot spring that gives youth, stalactites twisted into rings... A miracle exists here as an everyday occurrence, as if it happened just yesterday, and your neighbors witnessed it
Abkhazia is silent. The whole world is raging, but she is silent. There are earthquakes, rainfalls, floods everywhere, but on this earth the sun shines and nothing happens. Probably because everything here has already been experienced for a long time. The entrance to heaven is thinner than the eye of a needle. We know this from the Gospel.
However, now, in addition to its width, we also know its length. Three hundred meters. From my own experience. This entrance is located on the border of Russia and Abkhazia, at the border checkpoint with the mysterious name Psou. A slow stream of vehicles moves at a speed of about one hundred meters per hour on both sides of the checkpoint. A little more time to check the documents - and now we are breaking out onto the Novorossiysk - Sukhumi highway. The villages of Gyachrypsh and Tsandrypsh fly past the windows of the bus.
And what an amazing color the Abkhazian sea has! Rich blue. Water in a state of absolute rest plays in the sun. They also say that there is no such green color as in Abkhazia anywhere in the world. And, truly, one cannot but agree with this, looking at the lush greenery boiling on both sides of the road.
The first stop is the city of Gagra. Famous from the films “Winter Evening in Gagra” and “The Diamond Arm”, it is located on the shore of a calm bay, on a narrow terrace, sandwiched between the sea and mountain ranges, in the narrowest place of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. The city is surrounded by groves of the famous Pitsunda long-leaf pine - a very rare relict tree.
The city on the site of Gagra was founded in the 2nd century BC by Greek merchants under the name Triglyph. The long chain of names of the city testifies to its sad history: after Triglyph it bore the Roman name Nitika, then the Byzantine Trachea, later Kakara and Hackers, the Venetian Contesi (“harbour”) and Kakura, the Persian Derbent (“iron gate”) and the Turkish Badalag (“ high mountain"). The modern name of Gagra, according to some researchers, comes from the name of the ancient Abkhazian family Gagaa, who lived in these places.
Gagra is the warmest place in the Caucasus Black Sea region. Winter here is mild, with an average temperature of about seven degrees above zero. The average annual temperature reaches plus fifteen degrees. The swimming season lasts from May to October. In summer the sea warms up to plus twenty-eight degrees, the sun shines here 2500 hours a year! Nowhere in the former USSR are the snow-capped peaks as close to the sea as in Gagra. Here the warmth of the coast and the coolness of the mountains are inseparable. Hence the unique microclimate. And the air, filled with the sea, the sun, and the aromas of the subtropics, is in itself capable of defeating illnesses and prolonging life.
Modern Gagra is a wonderful resort, famous for its picturesque embankments and parks, surrounded by greenery of flowers, palm trees and cypress trees. The area of ​​Old Gagra is especially beautiful, where from the seashore there is a fabulous view of the mountains, gorges and bay. A delightful feature of Gagra is that here the mountains come closest to the coast, fringing the beaches with their bright vegetation. The sea water here is crystal clear and transparent.
And also - right here, in Gagra, there is a unique building of the hotel and restaurant "Gagrypsh", which a hundred years ago was delivered disassembled from Norway and Austria, and then erected without a single nail.
We leave the friendly southern city and head further along the highway. The resort town of Pitsunda, located on the cape of the same name, awaits us. Having crossed the Bzyb River over the bridge, we turn off the highway towards the sea. Along the way, on the left side of us, a picturesque lake appears. This is Lake Inkit.
There are many legends and traditions associated with Lake Inkit. Thus, according to some sources, when Lake Inkit served as the inner harbor of the ancient city of Pityus, in the 4th century. BC e., the ships of the great ancient commander Alexander the Great stood here. Port buildings and tower fortifications were built on the banks of the Inkit. Archaeologists of the Black Sea archaeological expedition on the shores of Inkit discovered a number of interesting antique objects and the foundations of ancient buildings. According to the existing legend, where Lake Inkit is now located, there was an ancient temple, but as a result of the lowering of the banks of Inkit, the temple found itself under the surface of the water.
Here you can fish in the calm lake water; in the reeds and thickets surrounding the lake, the hunter will find game. Various species of ducks, gray and yellow herons, marsh hens and many other representatives of the feathered world nest on the shores of the lake.
The lake is left behind, and we enter the territory of another unique resort - Pitsunda. It is difficult to describe in words all the charm of this delightful corner of Abkhazia with a unique microclimate. Anyone who has vacationed at least once in Pitsunda will certainly say that there is no better place to relax. Beautiful sandy beaches, framed by the famous Pitsunda pine, and an unusually gentle sea make this place unique.
Sea water at Cape Pitsunda and in the Ldzaa (Lidzava) area is the cleanest and most transparent in the entire Black Sea. Even in the summer heat, sea breezes and shady pine and cypress alleys keep Pitsunda amazingly cool. The resort's boarding houses, surrounded by greenery, are lined up along the edge of the famous protected pine grove.
Pitsunda pine is a rare specimen of the Pontic flora of the Tertiary period. This tree grows only on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. The age of individual trees reaches 200 years. Near the pine tree there is a boxwood grove; some trees reach 12 meters in height. It is to its healing properties that Pitsunda owes its phenomenal popularity. The area of ​​the pine grove is more than 200 hectares, there are about 27 thousand trees. And nearby is another rare oasis of flora - a boxwood grove.
Pitsunda owes its name to pine: in Greek pine is “pitius”.
The city was founded long before our era by ancient Greek colonialists. In the 1st century BC they were ousted by the Romans, and later the northern Black Sea tribes - the Goths and Monitor Lizards - ruled here. There were also Genoese and Turks. In 1830, Pitsunda was occupied by Russian troops, and in 1882 the tsarist government transferred the entire territory to the New Athos Monastery for the construction of a courtyard. Archaeological excavations have confirmed the high material culture of ancient Pitiunta. Evidence of this is the found remains of a sewerage system, a water supply system, a bathhouse, and a mosaic floor. The temple of the 10th-11th centuries is well preserved. In 1975, after a major renovation, an organ was installed in it. Organ concerts attract a lot of listeners.
We are given an hour to do everything - walk, swim, take pictures. And again on the road. New Athos awaits us. But more on that later. Now we are passing several equally interesting places. These are the villages of Otkhara, Lykhny and the city of Gudauta.
The village of Othara is located at the foot of the Bzyb Mountains on the left bank of the Mchyshta River (Black River). The Mchyshta River is the largest karst spring in the Caucasus - a cave river comes to the surface. The purest ice water flows over white boulders among impenetrable thickets of boxwood and other subtropical vegetation. Overhanging the village and the river is a picturesque steep cliff, in which, at an altitude of 50 m, there is the Mchyshtinsky cave complex - numerous cells of a medieval monastery. The cells are located in several tiers, and it is impossible to get into them without special climbing equipment. This village is also famous for the oldest trout farm in the former USSR, founded back in 1934.
Lykhny is the largest village of the republic, the ancient capital of the Abkhaz principality. It is located 5 km north of Gudauta. Nowadays, the main architectural and historical value of the village is the famous functioning Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God (10th century), which has been preserved in its original form. It's not difficult to find. In the center of the village there is a vast clearing - Lykhnashta, or Lykhnenskaya Square - where in the past horse racing was held, harvest day was celebrated, and meetings and rallies were held in turbulent times.
On the northern edge of the square there is the Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God with a low stone fence (equally ancient) and a two-tier bell tower. In the cathedral you can see frescoes from the 14th century and unusual icons; The last ruling prince of Abkhazia, Georgy Chachba-Shervashidze, under whom the country became part of Russia, is buried under the temple's cover. The cathedral was closed in 1945-55, then the stables of the local equestrian club were located inside.
Next to the Lykhny Temple, near the bank of the Adzlagara River, are the grass-overgrown ruins of the palace of the ruling princes of Abkhazia, Chachba-Shervashidze (XI-XIX centuries). On one of the walls you can see a barely noticeable six-pointed star, laid out in the masonry between the windows. On the opposite side of the clearing from the palace is a recently restored 19th-century chapel. In Soviet times, a huge building of the Lykhny House of Culture was built next to the Chachba Palace, now it is a half-abandoned building of the village administration.
The resort town of Gudauta is named so, according to an ancient legend, in honor of two lovers - a young man named Guda and a girl named Uta. The story is worthy of Shakespeare's pen. The families of these young people, divided by blood feud, did not allow them to unite. And then the lovers, in despair, threw themselves into the river and died.
The history of the city goes back several thousand years. On the territory and in the vicinity of Gudauta there are archaeological sites of the Neolithic, Bronze Age, and Early Iron Age. In the 1st millennium AD, the Abazgs (ancestors of modern Abkhazians) settled here; in the 13th-14th centuries, Italian merchants founded a trading post here, calling it Cavo de Buxa (Palm Harbor).
The attractions of Gudauta include: the Museum of the Patriotic War of the People of Abkhazia, beautiful parks and squares, wonderful small-pebble beaches. Due to its special geographical location on a wide coastal plain, this resort has a favorable microclimate. They say that a holiday here is much cheaper than in Abkhazia as a whole.
New Athos is located 22 kilometers from Sukhum in the gorge of the Psyrtskha River. It is known for its unique microclimate, abundance of evergreen vegetation, clean sea air, and history going back centuries.
People have long been attracted to this exceptionally picturesque place, rich in abundant springs, inaccessible peaks and building materials. Therefore, so many traces of human activity have been preserved here that an inquisitive traveler can easily trace the history of Abkhaz architecture for almost two thousand years.
New Athos is the oldest center of Christianity in Abkhazia. About a hundred years ago, in this picturesque bay, monks from the famous Greek Athos founded the Simon-Kananitsky monastery, a similar one. It is located at an altitude of 75 meters above sea level at the foot of Mount Athos.
A narrow asphalt strip of highway in the thick shade of cypress trees leads to the main gate of the monastery. Powerful walls with endless rows of windows, above which rise the blue domes of the monastery churches, a wide road lined with multi-colored tiles leading under the high arch of the gate, the light brown outline of the bulk of St. Panteleimon's Cathedral, the lace of foliage of the trees, the blue of the sky, the gray “carpet” of the stone pavement of the courtyard - these are the first impressions of the visitor, which remain in the memory for a long time.
The New Athos Monastery was founded in 1875 by monks from Old Athos (Athos - in Greek “quiet, deserted”) - a monastery located in Greece. In 1888, Tsar Alexander III visited New Athos. A chapel was built where the abbot of the monastery met the king, and it can still be seen opposite the pier. The path along which the king walked from the pier to the monastery was lined with cypress trees by the monks and called the “Tsar’s Alley.” The cathedral is the largest religious building in Abkhazia. It can accommodate more than three thousand people at the same time.
One of the most amazing miracles that the nature of Abkhazia is so generous with is the New Athos Cave, known today throughout the world. A magical world opens up to everyone who visits this miracle of nature. In the underground kingdom of stalactites and stalagmites, like precious stones in a frame, halls and galleries stretched out in a chain.
For millions of years it hid its secrets in the depths of the Iverskaya Mountain and was discovered quite recently, in 1961, by a local resident, the young man Givi Smyr. Now one of the cave halls bears his name. And in 1975, the first “cave metro” train carrying tourists passed through an artificial tunnel leading to the cave.
The New Athos Cave is a colossal karst cavity, its size rivals the most famous dungeons in the world, including such giants as the Škocianska Cave and the Carlsbad Cave. Even the wildest imagination cannot suggest to the imagination what secrets are hidden in the depths of the Iverskaya Mountain, what miracles await underground. The extraordinary cave landscape is striking in its beauty: from the wild chaos of the gloomy lower halls to the magnificent stalactite palaces sparkling with white. Here you can see the mysterious green eyes of “living” cave lakes, be enchanted by the unique harmony of sounds in “musical” grottoes and the endless beauty and variety of unique crystal formations.
We leave the cool cave and plunge back into the hot August day. We continue our journey, discovering amazing, unique and inimitable places of extraordinary beauty. Forward to the high mountain lake Ritsa.
The road to Ritsa departs from the Black Sea Highway, at the bridge over the Bzyb River. And then it goes, meandering between the rocks, along the gorges of the Bzyb River, its tributary Gega and the Yupshara flowing into it, which flows from Ritsa itself.
At the 16th kilometer – Blue Lake. In the summer heat, this is a real oasis for a tired tourist, where you can relieve all fatigue by taking a sip of cool, tasty water from the stream flowing into the lake. They say it rejuvenates and prolongs life. The lake is of karst origin, its area is about 180 square meters, its depth is up to 76 meters. The water in the lake is blue, this is explained by the fact that the bottom is covered with lapis lazuli deposits, and the water is transparent.
Further the highway winds through the gorge. The higher we rise, the more impressions we get. Sometimes you want to stop right here, on the banks of a white-foamed river, on a green lawn. But even more wonderful places lie ahead.
If we turn off the highway and climb a rocky, steep road along the Gega River, then after 5-6 kilometers the famous Geg waterfall will appear in front of us. And if you go further, the Circassian glade will open, famous for its giant fir trees.
The Yupshar Gorge is unique. Its length is eight kilometers. The path becomes steeper and steeper. The mountains seemed to close together. Only a narrow strip of sky is visible. Greenish-red ribbons of moss hang from the tall, sheer eaves. This is the Yupshar Canyon - the most picturesque section of the gorge.
Now the gorge ends, the bus breaks out into a sun-drenched expanse. The road rises higher and higher. Turn, turn again.
And here it is, a miracle lake, the fabulous Ritsa, surrounded by giant mountains covered with dense forests. From the west and southwest, Ritsu is guarded by the city of Pshegishkha, from the north by the cities of Atsetuka and Agepsta, and from the east by the spurs of the Rykhva ridge. The height of the mountains is from 2200 to 3500 meters. The lake is located at an altitude of 950 meters above sea level.
Scientists believe that the lake was formed as a result of a mountain collapse that blocked the bed of the Lashipse River. This is how nature created this wondrous wonder. The lake spreads over an area of ​​132 hectares, its greatest depth is 115 meters.
In Abkhazia there are a lot of poetic legends, tales and epics about this or that place or event. All of them are unusually lyrical. There is such a legend about Lake Ritsa.
Once upon a time there was a valley in this place and a river flowed through it. In the fabulous pastures along its banks, a beautiful girl named Ritsa, the only sister of three brothers - Agepsta, Atsetuki and Pshegishkha, tended her flock. During the day the brothers hunted and in the evenings they gathered around the fireplace. Ritsa was preparing dinner, the brothers sang, admiring her. One day the brothers went hunting in the distant mountains. A day passed, then two, they still did not return. Ritsa, missing them, kept looking at the road and singing in her enchanting voice.
Two forest robbers Gega and Yupshara heard her voice. Seeing the beauty, they decided to kidnap her. Yupshara grabbed her and galloped along the valley on his horse. Gega covered him. The brothers heard the cries for help. They rushed after him. Pshegishkha threw a heroic sword at the robbers, but missed. The sword fell and blocked the river. Water quickly began to flood the valley and in an instant turned it into a lake. The help that arrived in time inspired Ritsa, and with the last of her strength she escaped from the tenacious hands of the robbers, but, unable to stay on her feet, fell into the seething lake. No matter how hard the brothers tried, they could not save their sister. Ritsa remained under water. Then Pshegishkha grabbed Yupshara and threw him into the lake. But the waters of the Ritsa did not accept the scoundrel and threw him through Pshegishkha’s sword and carried him into the sea. Gega ran after him, but he could not save his friend. Then he joined him.
From terrible grief the brothers turned to stone and turned into high mountains. They still stand above the lake, protecting the peace of the unforgettable Ritsa.
Having admired the unforgettable landscapes and breathed in the purest mountain air, we return back to Russia. Tired but happy. There is a border ahead, where we will again lose two to three hours of time.
And again Adler with its mini-hotels, Khosta, Sochi with a frantic rhythm and a complete lack of sleepiness, despite the midnight. Expensive restaurants and helpful waiters. Nevertheless, there is a strange feeling that it is better there - in Abkhazia, the sea is cleaner, the fruits are tastier, and the people are friendlier...
In fact, everyone is free to choose their own vacation - whatever they like. Abkhazia in Abkhazian is Apsny, which translated means “country of the soul.” When you come to Abkhazia for the first time, you acutely feel that the creation of the world has just completed here, and the Lord has not yet managed to go far. Here all the time there is an invisible darning of human souls, into which threads of temptation and high revelation are woven.
And the sea disappears in the evening, burned by the sun. The sea “ashes” are quickly filled with twilight, and I will tell you that it is from that darkness that our most vivid dreams are born.

Flag of Abkhazia:

Coat of arms of Abkhazia:

Official name– Republic of Abkhazia.

Form of government- Republic.

Head of State- The president

Legislature – People's Assembly– the highest legislative body of the Republic of Abkhazia, a unicameral parliament.

Executive branch– Provided to the President.

Official language– Abkhazian (Russian, along with Abkhazian, is recognized as the language of state and other institutions).

Religion– more than 60% profess Christianity (16% are Muslims; 8% are atheists; 5% are pagans).

Currency– Russian ruble (RUB):

The Russian ruble is divided into 100 Russian kopecks:

Origin of name.

The name Abkhazia comes from the Abkhazian word. Apsny - translated from Abkhazian as “country of the Aps (Abkhazians)”, according to folk etymology - “country of the soul”.

Climate.

The climate of Abkhazia is determined by its coastal position and the presence of high mountain ranges.

On the coast the climate is humid subtropical. The average temperature in January is from +2 to +4 °C. The average temperature in August is from +22 to +24. The average precipitation is about 1500 mm per year.

The mountains have a clearly defined altitudinal zone, which causes large differences in the climate of different mountainous areas. The subtropical climate in the mountains extends to approximately 400 m altitude. Eternal snow lies at an altitude of 2700-3000 m.

Geography.

Abkhazia is located in the northwestern part of Transcaucasia between the Psou and Ingur rivers, and is washed by the Black Sea in the southwest. The coast, more than 210 km long, is slightly indented, with wide pebble beaches often found. Sea expanses, subtropical vegetation, stormy rivers and the peaks of the Greater Caucasus give Abkhazia exceptional picturesqueness. The total area of ​​Abkhazia is 8600 km.

Most of the territory of the republic (about 75%) is occupied by the spurs of the Main (Water Dividing) Range, which borders Abkhazia from the north - the Gagra, Bzyb, Abkhaz and Kodori ranges. The highest point of the ridge is Mount Dombay-Ulgen (4046 m). The passes leading to Abkhazia through the Main Range are Klukhorsky (2781 m), Marukhsky (2739 m), and others.

From the southeast, the Colchis Lowland enters Abkhazia, gradually narrowing. A narrow strip of lowland stretches along the coast northwest of the Kodor River. Between the mountains and lowlands there is a belt of hilly foothills. Karst phenomena are developed in Abkhazia (Voronya, Abrskyla, Anakopia caves, etc.). In Abkhazia there is the deepest karst cave in the world - the Krubera-Voronya cavity (depth 2080 meters), located not far from Gagra. Six kilometers from Gagra there is the picturesque Mount Mamzyshkha.

Abkhazia consists of 7 administrative regions: 1 - Gagra district, 2 - Gudauta district, 3 - Sukhumi district, 4 - Gulrypsh district, 5 - Ochamchira district, 6 - Tkuarchal district and 7 - Gal district.

Natural resources.

Abkhazia has reserves of coal (more than 5.3 million tons), peat, dolomite, marble, granite, limestone, gabbro-diabase, chalk, tuff, peat, barite, dolomite, lead, and various building materials. There are small oil and gas deposits on the shelf of Abkhazia. The total area of ​​agricultural land is 421.6 thousand hectares. In terms of water availability, Abkhazia ranks one of the first places in the world: there are more than 1.7 million cubic meters per square kilometer of territory. river flow per year. The total length of 120 rivers is more than 5 thousand km. These are mainly rapid mountain streams, which is the potential for the development of small hydropower. 57% of the territory (497 thousand hectares) is covered with forest.

Abkhazia has a colossal amount of recreational resources. About 200 boarding houses, holiday homes, sanatoriums, hotels, children's health centers are located in all climatic zones - from subtropical to alpine. There are a large number of thermal and mineral springs.

Flora and fauna.

The flora of Abkhazia includes more than 2000 plant species, of which 149 species are represented by trees and shrubs, the rest are herbaceous. About 400 species are endemic to the Caucasus, and over 100 species are found on the planet only in Abkhazia. Over 55% of the republic's area is covered with forests. In the Black Sea region, which is most developed for cultivated vegetation (subtropical, industrial, fruit and ornamental crops, grain crops, etc.) and in the gorges, there are separate tracts of broad-leaved forests (hornbeam, hornbeam, oak, chestnut, etc.) and alder forests. At Cape Pitsunda, a grove of relict Pitsunda pine has been preserved. The mountains are dominated by beech trees (in some places with boxwood in the second layer), on the upper part of the slopes there are fir and spruce forests. From 2000 m subalpine crooked forests, alpine meadows and rocky-crushed vegetation begin.

In the forests there are bear, wild boar, lynx, red deer, and roe deer; in the highlands - chamois, Caucasian black grouse; in the lowlands - the jackal; in rivers and lakes - trout, salmon, carp, pike perch and other types of fish. On the territory of Abkhazia there are Ritsinsky, Gumistsky, Pitsundsky nature reserves

Resorts:

IN Abkhazia There are four resorts:

Avadhara- a resort in the Western Caucasus, in Abkhazia, 18 km from Lake Ritsa, located at an altitude of 1600 m, famous for its mineral springs. Currently, only one of the springs is equipped - water from it is delivered to Sukhum to the mineral water bottling plant.

Gagra- a picturesque resort in Abkhazia, the city is located 36 km from Sochi airport on the shore of a calm bay. The mountains create their own microclimate, protecting the city from cold winds and retaining warm sea air. Due to the contrast in altitude, mountain gorges ventilate and renew the air in the city. Within the city limits, several rivers flow into the sea - Zhoekvara, Gagrypsh, Anykhamtsa, Reprua. To the west and southeast there are groves of Pitsunda pine.

Pitsunda- a seaside climatic resort on the cape of the same name on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, 25 km south of Gagra. The climate in Pitsunda is humid Mediterranean subtropical, similar to the climate of Gagra. Summer is warm (August temperature +29°C), winter is mild, January temperature is about +11°C, the annual average is +16.5°C.

New Athos- a city in the Gudauta region of Abkhazia, located 80 kilometers from the Russian border. New Athos has many attractions, natural and historical monuments. The climate is humid, Mediterranean subtropical, average annual temperature 16.3 °C, in summer +30 °C - +32 °C, in winter +9 °C - +11 °C. The water warms up to 26 °C - 28 °C

Attractions:

• New Athos Monastery
• Lake Ritsa
• Geg waterfall
• Dachas of I.V. Stalin (5 in total)
• Sukhumi Botanical Garden
• Sukhumi Monkey Institute
• Colonnade in Gagra
• Merchant's house in Pitsunda
• Observation deck in Gagra
• Historical Buildings
• Monuments dedicated to the Georgian-Abkhaz conflict
• Karst caves
• Blue Lake
• Waterfalls: Milk, Bird, Maiden's tears, Man's tears, etc.
• Honey house, on the way to the lake. Ritsa
• Sukhumi Drama Theater
• Restaurant Gagrypsh
• Fortress in Gagra
• New Athos waterfall - hydroelectric power station
• Stone gorge on the Bzyp River ("Stone Bag" gorge)

Abkhazian wines:

Wine began to be made on the territory of Abkhazia several millennia BC. This is the second region after the Middle East where traces of an ancient civilization familiar with winemaking have been discovered. This is evidenced by archaeological finds - jugs with remains of grape seeds found in dolmens of the 3rd-2nd millennium BC. e.

Strabo called Dioscuria the center of winemaking - from there natural semi-sweet wines were supplied to Ancient Rome.

Prince Nikolai Achba is considered the founder of modern industrial winemaking in Abkhazia.

Wine List:

• Reds
  • « Radeda» - red natural dry wine from Isabella grapes. Produced since 2002. Strength 10-12% vol.
  • « Bouquet of Abkhazia" - red dessert wine from the Isabella grape variety. Produced since 1929. The wine has a velvety taste and pronounced fruity notes. Pairs perfectly with dessert dishes. ABV 16%.
  • « Lykhny» - red semi-sweet wine from the Isabella grape variety. Produced since 1962. Strength 9-11%.
  • « Apsny» - red semi-sweet wine from Cabernet, Merlot and Saperavi grape varieties. It has a garnet color. It has a velvety taste and a harmonious, coherent bouquet. Produced since 1970. Strength 9-11%.
  • « Escher» - red semi-dry natural wine made from a mixture of Isabella grapes with other red varieties. Produced since 2002. Strength 9-11%.
  • « Chegem» - natural dry red wine from Cabernet grapes. Produced since 2002. Strength 10-12%.
  • « Amra» - red semi-dry grape wine from blends of selected red wine materials. Produced since 2002. Strength 10-11%.
• White
  • « Psou» - white semi-sweet wine. The classic Abkhazian version is made from Tsolikouri grapes, but a blend of Riesling and Aligote grape varieties is widely sold. The wine has a light straw color. Produced since 1962. Strength 9-11%.
  • « Anacopia» - white semi-dry wine from Riesling and Rkatsiteli grape varieties. It has a delicate aroma, fresh and light taste. Produced since 1978. Strength 9-11%.
  • « Dioscuria» - natural dry white wine from selected varieties of white grapes. Produced since 2002. Strength 10-12%.

  Cuisine of Abkhazia:

  The national cuisine of Abkhazia is not numerous in its range, but very tasty and varied. Historically, the development of cuisine was influenced by the fact that the Abkhaz tribes were engaged in both agriculture and cattle breeding. Therefore, the assortment includes both plant and meat products.

  The meat is cooked in the traditional way on a spit over hot coals. This is how delicious dishes are prepared - carcasses of goats and lambs roasted on a spit, stuffed with finely chopped entrails, cheese, adjika and mint, as well as chickens and chickens flavored with adjika or nut sauce.

  Most plant-based dishes are prepared from beans, as well as corn, cabbage, tomatoes, and peppers. Fresh and salted vegetables are usually served with vegetable and meat dishes. Abkhazians flavor any dish, be it vegetables or meat, with spices and hot sauces (from cherry plum, barberry, blackberry, pomegranate, green grapes, tomatoes). A set of spices - coriander, savory, basil, mint, dill, parsley - gives Abkhazian dishes a specific aroma and makes the food tastier. Special mention should be made of adjika, served with literally every Abkhaz dish. This is a thick, spicy and aromatic seasoning that contains red pepper, as well as spices, garlic and salt.

  The role of bread on the Abkhazian table is played by abysta - a thick porridge made from corn flour. In addition, unleavened flatbreads, breads or churek are made from corn flour, sweetened with honey or stuffed with cheese or walnuts. They are baked on hot coals.

  Dairy products occupy one of the important places in the diet of Abkhazians. As well as cheeses of different types and varieties.

  Abkhazians have also long been engaged in gardening, viticulture and beekeeping. Therefore, vegetables, fruits, grapes, walnuts, honey were always present on the Abkhazian table. Walnuts are generally an essential component of many dishes. Honey also has a special place. It is eaten with churek, dumplings, pies, etc.

The word “Apsny” translated from Abkhazian into Russian means “Country of the Soul”. This is what many often call Abkhazia - a land with an ancient culture, history and difficult fate, which has not, however, lost its charm, magically attracting tourists from different parts of, if not the whole world, then certainly the entire former USSR. Gagra, Pitsunda, Sukhum... Whatever you say, most people still associate these names not with military operations, but with the sea, the sun, luxurious nature, hospitable people and amazingly tasty Caucasian food. The latter will be the main topic of this text. It’s not called “gourmet travel notes” for nothing.

A few words about Abkhaz cuisine

Yes, yes, just a few. I want to warn you right away that this text is not a scientific study of the nutritional habits of citizens living between the Psou rivers in the north and the Ingur rivers in the south. These are simply culinary impressions brought from vacation and carefully preserved especially for “Culinary Eden”. So don’t expect a story here only about national Abkhaz food. Let's look at things more broadly - after all, there are so many delicious things in the Caucasus!

However, let's start with the owners, paying tribute to them. What is Abkhazian cuisine? In principle, it is not rich, these are not Russian or Ukrainian pickles. This means that the number of dishes of Abkhazian cuisine is not large (it’s good if there are 50). That is why many believe that Abkhazian cuisine does not exist at all and everything that is eaten in the Caucasus can be called Caucasian cuisine. Of course, neighboring peoples borrowing recipes for various dishes from each other is an inevitable process. But still, you must agree, it would be strange if a country with such a rich history (alas, we won’t remember it here, otherwise the text would take up half the site) did not have its own culinary traditions at all. Naturally, this is not so.

The cuisine of Abkhazia, in fact, is divided into two “sections”: flour and everything else that is eaten with flour. These “sections” have their own names: “agukha” and “atsyfa”, respectively. But the residents of Abkhazia themselves rarely use them in their everyday speech. Perhaps in remote mountain villages, but there are not many of them left in modern Abkhazia. Many chose to go down from the mountains to the sea, where they could earn more and generally live more comfortably. Here it is also worth considering the fact that it is Abkhazians who currently live in Abkhazia, 20 percent of the total population. The country of the soul is multinational.

Traditionally, Abkhazians eat a lot of plant foods. This is not surprising, because the land on which they live is fertile and fertile. Beans, corn, and walnuts, rich in minerals and vitamins, are frequent guests on the Abkhazian table. By the way, not only walnuts are loved in Abkhazia - the house near Pitsunda, which we rented for the holidays, was located in hazelnut thickets. You wake up in the morning, go out onto the veranda, pick a few young nuts - and here it is, the first breakfast of the new day.

In Abkhazia, of course, they also eat meat. However, in smaller volumes than in other regions of the North Caucasus. They are very fond of dairy and fermented milk products. Of course, alcohol is not forgotten either. Most people in Abkhazia drink chacha (strong grape moonshine, a kind of analogue of grappa) and wine.

Apatskhi

In Abkhazia, you shouldn’t dine just anywhere. No, of course, you are free to go anywhere - there are countless cafes and restaurants here, as in any resort region. But if you want to try local cuisine, prepared more or less traditionally, then you should head straight to Apatsha.

Initially, apatskha was just a kitchen in the courtyard of an Abkhaz house. Outwardly, it looks like a wicker hut. Actually, this is a structure woven from rhododendron twigs. Inside the apatskhi there was a hearth, and above it there were at least two pots. One is for preparing mamaliga, and the other is for lobio (nowadays the Abkhazians mainly call this dish simply “beans”, so as not to use the Georgian name; the authentic “akud” is less often used). In addition, meat was usually smoked over the hearth.

Today, Apatskha is a cafe decorated in the national style (animal skins, horns, bunches of red pepper, garlic...) where they serve dishes of Abkhazian and generally Caucasian cuisine. However, skins and horns are more of a decorative element for the Apats, designed for tourists. Those that are intended more for the local population have more modest decoration, and they are, as a rule, not located on tourist streets. In such small "for their own" apatsks, prices are usually lower and the food is tastier. After all, whatever one may say, a tourist will eat once or twice and leave, you never know what he liked there, and what he didn’t like, another tourist will come to take his place. The neighbor, if you feed him poorly, will not come again and will discourage others.

In general, if you want to feel the atmosphere of a typical Abkhaz meal, look for “non-elite” apatskhi. For example, there are them on the route from the Psou River (border with Russia) to Sukhum (the capital of the country) and further south, in Sukhum itself, or in any Abkhaz city or small village - ask the local residents. Of course, not all dishes, even in the Apatskhas, are now prepared over an open fire and in full accordance with the traditions of their ancestors: after all, there are gas and electric stoves, and other kitchen appliances (Abkhazia is no stranger to progress!). But all the same, you can be fed tastier than in Apatskhe, perhaps, only at your home table if you visit a local family. Anyway, enough talk, let's eat something already!

Hominy

The main flour dish in Abkhazia is, of course, mamalyga. The local name is “Abysta”. Actually, this is not only the Abkhaz national dish. Mingrelians, Moldovans, Romanians prepare it... Abkhazians also cook it. Hominy is made from corn flour (previously, quite a long time ago, it was also cooked from millet, but gradually corn “won”). You can also add corn grits. Actually, mamalyga is the same bread for the local population. Although “ordinary” bread in our understanding (“brick”) is also eaten in Abkhazia. Plus, of course, lavash.

I made a special stop at one of the apachas on the highway between Gagra and New Athos. It was recommended to me by a friend from Sochi, who had traveled the length and breadth of Abkhazia in his car. Apatsha may not have a name at all. Just apatsha and that’s it: “kebab, solyanka, khachapur, mamalyga,” says a small sign by the road. Great! I walk in and see Abkhaz policemen having lunch. Well, that means I ended up where I wanted - the locals certainly know where the food is delicious.

I order mamalyga (45 rubles*). You don't have to wait long - about 10 minutes, although the cooking time for hominy "from scratch" is certainly no less than 40 minutes. Later it turned out that in the Apatskhas, as a rule, hominy is prepared in the morning, or when it’s finished, and they cook a lot, and then during the day it hangs in a cauldron over a small fire and simmers, “bubbling” in anticipation of the eaters. It happens, of course, that it doesn’t hang - it’s cooked on the stove.

So, they bring me a plate with a light “mound” on which rest two pieces of suluguni cheese. Using a spoon, I carry a little of this thick porridge into my mouth. To be honest, at first I didn’t like it - it was too bland. However, if you eat mamaliga with cheese, which is put on top for a reason, everything changes. Salty suluguni greatly complements this “corn porridge”.

The recipe for mamaliga is simple, the mother of the owner from whom we rented a house in the hazel grove told me about it - an 85-year-old woman who was born and lived all her life in Abkhazia - an Armenian named Arusyak. You will need: finely ground corn flour (450-500 grams for two large servings), water (4-5 glasses for 2-3 servings), salt and suluguni cheese (400-500 g, - “you can’t spoil hominy with cheese”) . Sift the flour and pour about half of it into a saucepan with a thick bottom, or maybe into a cast-iron pot (if you want to cook over a fire), where there is already lightly salted hot, but not boiling, water. Be sure to stir so that there are no lumps. Cook it all until you get a mushy mass. Afterwards, add the remaining flour. Don’t forget to keep stirring - there is a special wooden spatula (“amkhabysta”) for this purpose. Of course, if you don’t have amkhabysts, any will do. Already thickened hominy should not stick to the walls of the pan. When the porridge can be formed into a “mound” (like the one in the photo), remove the pan from the heat. Let it cool a little (just a little), put it on a plate or on a wooden stand, and stick two or three pieces of cheese on top.

In principle, thick hominy (and it can be prepared in different ways) is eaten with hands; it often happens that it is even cut into pieces with a knife. If you have mamalyga in the most authentic way, which is called “Caucasian style,” then you should also order lobio (let me still call it that) along with it. Many local residents make unique little scoops from hominy, scoop the lobio with them and put it all in their mouths. Mamaliga is also served with tkemali sauce (locally called “asadzbal”), fried or smoked and fried meat. Details about the latter are below.

Smoked meat

As mentioned above, the Abkhazians traditionally smoked meat over a fireplace in Apatskhe. So it was and so it is. In modern Apatsk cafes there is also a fireplace, and meat is also hung above it. Most often it is beef. In general, cows in Abkhazia seem to be the same sacred animals as in India. They are everywhere here: they climb the mountains, go out to the sea, sometimes frightening vacationers, at the most unexpected moment they can appear on the highway and lie down right on the dividing strip...

But we digress. Before smoking, the meat is rubbed with salt and spices, allowed to sit for a while and soak. I was told about this already in another apatsha, in New Athos. I admit, it was not that far from tourists (I noticed skins and antlers), but still made a pleasant impression on me. This apatskha even had a name (which, however, occurs quite often) - “Abkhazian courtyard.”

So, the meat hangs over the fire and is smoked. How long exactly does this process take? Actually, there is no specific deadline. It all depends on taste preferences: some people like slightly smoked meat, others like it with a strong smoked taste. But still, usually it is no more than 8-10 days. After the meat has reached “condition”, it is cut into small pieces (so that it can be immediately put into the mouth) and fried a little in a frying pan. If the frying pan is made of clay, it is served in it, and if it is fried in a regular frying pan, it is transferred to a plate. A serving is 150 grams. This pleasure will cost 70 rubles (now imagine how much they would charge you in a Moscow restaurant). Along with smoked-fried meat (“akuap”), it’s good to order a hot and sour sauce made from cherry plum, herbs, and spices - the same asadzbal. Naturally, this meat is also eaten with hominy. It is better to drink it with dry red wine. But you can also use chacha, of course. Or tangerine “juice” - it is sold everywhere in Abkhazia (40-50 rubles per bottle with a capacity of 0.5-0.6 liters) but, of course, it is not juice as such, rather a juice-containing drink with pulp.

Actually, it is meat prepared in this way (smoked and fried) that can be called an everyday Abkhaz meat dish. As already mentioned, it is usually beef. They also cook pork, but it is more for tourists. A truly royal treat that you won’t find everywhere is smoked game. Birds are also smoked in Abkhazia: chickens, turkeys, quails, pheasants. Of course, Abkhazians eat not only smoked, but also boiled meat; they love spit-roasted chicken rubbed with adjika.

There is a common misconception: supposedly in the Caucasus the only meat is kebab. Unfortunately (or fortunately) this is not the case. Shish kebab, of course, is prepared in Abkhazia in almost every cafe, but this offer is born thanks to demand from visitors.

Khachapur

In the past - khachapuri. The letter “i” is “Georgian”, just like in the name of the country’s capital - Sukhum(i). Therefore, she was given resignation. Khachapur is another flour dish, without which it is difficult to imagine Abkhaz cuisine. In principle, there is another name for it, local - “achashv”.

It is believed that real Abkhazian khachapur is a closed pie (flatbread, if you like) made of thin unleavened dough with salty cheese as a filling. Everything is very simple and yet surprisingly tasty. So even the expression “finger lickin’ good” doesn’t quite fit here. You'll probably bite off your fingers. Khachapur is served hot, which is called “hot, hot”. So the one who is about to taste it has a few more minutes to admire it and inhale its alluring and appetite-stimulating aroma, while waiting for the khachapur to cool down a little.

Khachapur is now prepared in an electric oven, approximately the same as in a regular pizzeria for preparing pizza. So you shouldn’t look for some authentic national oven in a place where khachapur is served. Khachapur usually costs 150 rubles. On our last visit to Abkhazia, we, as they say, “went crazy” - we ordered three khachapurs for three and... And we almost went crazy when we saw how much we had to eat. Remember - khachapur is big, they will bring it to you cut into pieces (the same way they cut pizza). One khachapur is enough for two or three eaters. This is if besides him there is nothing else at this moment. So be careful!

Another type of khachapur that you should definitely try in Abkhazia is “boat”. Some “experts” mistakenly believe that this is the real Abkhaz khachapur. But that's not true. Even the Abkhazians themselves say that their dish is “closed” khachapur (which was discussed above). The boat is Adjarian-style khachapur. It differs in that the cheese is placed in the middle of the khachapur and is not covered with dough on top (by the way, for the “boat”, unlike the first option, it is prepared with the addition of yeast). You will be served an oval flatbread filled with melted cheese in the middle. There must be an egg on the cheese (essentially a fried egg). Can you imagine how tasty it is and, most importantly, satisfying? You should not eat Adjarian khachapur with a spoon or fork: break off the edge of the flatbread with your hand, dip it into the hot center (mixing cheese with egg) and put it in your mouth. Heavenly pleasure, and for only 100 rubles. In principle, such khachpur, with a glass of wine, beer, a glass of juice or milk, can easily replace a full lunch. You will leave the table with a feeling of deep satisfaction.

We'll probably stop here. Culinary ecstasy is a good thing. However, it’s even better when you don’t pounce on all the dishes at once, but savor each one without rushing. In the second part of this impromptu culinary journey through Abkhazia, we will taste chanakh and chakhokhbili, drink chacha, and indulge in local beer and wine. In addition, we will not ignore seafood. Itabup, abziaras (“Thank you, goodbye” - abkh.)!

* - all prices are for August 2009

Daniil Golovin, Dmitry Egorov