The biggest wave in the world: still to come. The biggest waves in the world... And other killer waves

What causes the appearance of most waves in the oceans and seas, about the destructive energy of waves and about the most gigantic waves and the largest tsunamis that man has ever seen.

The highest wave

Most often, waves are generated by the wind: air moves the surface layers of the water column at a certain speed. Some waves can accelerate up to 95 km/h, and the wave can be up to 300 meters long; such waves travel enormous distances across the ocean, but most often their kinetic energy is extinguished and consumed before they reach land. If the wind subsides, then the waves become smaller and smoother.

The formation of waves in the ocean follows certain patterns.

The height and length of the wave depend on the wind speed, the duration of its influence, and the area covered by the wind. There is a correspondence: the greatest height of a wave is one-seventh of its length. For example, a strong breeze generates waves up to 3 meters high, an extensive hurricane - on average up to 20 meters. And these are truly monstrous waves, with roaring foam caps and other special effects.

The highest normal wave of 34 meters was recorded in the Agulhas Current (South Africa) in 1933 by sailors on board the American ship Ramapo. Waves of this height are called “rogue waves”: even a large ship can easily get lost in the gaps between them and die.

In theory, the height of normal waves can reach 60 meters, but such waves have not yet been recorded in practice.

In addition to the usual wind origin, there are other mechanisms of wave formation. The cause and epicenter of the birth of a wave can be an earthquake, a volcanic eruption, a sharp change in the coastline (landslides), human activity (for example, nuclear weapons testing) and even the fall of large celestial bodies - meteorites - into the ocean.

The biggest wave

This is a tsunami - a serial wave that is caused by some powerful impulse. The peculiarity of tsunami waves is that they are quite long; the distance between the crests can reach tens of kilometers. Therefore, in the open ocean, a tsunami does not pose a particular danger, since the height of the waves is on average no more than a few centimeters, in record cases - a meter and a half, but the speed of their propagation is simply unimaginable, up to 800 km / hour. From a ship on the open sea they are not noticeable at all. A tsunami acquires destructive power as it approaches the coast: reflection from the coast leads to a compression of the wavelength, but the energy does not disappear anywhere. Accordingly, its (wave) amplitude, that is, height, increases. It is easy to conclude that such waves can reach much higher heights than wind waves.

The worst tsunamis are caused by significant disturbances in the topography of the seabed, such as tectonic faults or shifts, due to which billions of tons of water begin to abruptly move tens of thousands of kilometers at the speed of a jet aircraft. Disasters occur when this entire mass slows down on the shore, and its colossal energy first goes to increase in height, and ultimately collapses onto the land with all its power, a wall of water.

The most tsunami-hazardous places are bays with high banks. These are real tsunami traps. And the worst thing is that a tsunami almost always comes suddenly: in appearance, the situation at sea can be indistinguishable from low tide or high tide, an ordinary storm, people do not have time or do not even think about evacuating, and suddenly they are overtaken by a giant wave. Not many places have developed a warning system.

Territories with increased seismic activity are areas of particular risk in our time. No wonder the name of this natural phenomenon is of Japanese origin.

The worst tsunami in Japan

The islands are regularly attacked by waves of different calibers, and among them there are truly gigantic ones that entail human casualties. An earthquake off the east coast of Honshu in 2011 caused a tsunami with wave heights of up to 40 meters. The earthquake is estimated to be the strongest in the recorded history of Japan. The waves struck along the entire coast, together with the earthquake they claimed the lives of more than 15 thousand people, many thousands were missing.

Another of the highest waves in Japanese history hit the western island of Hokkaido in 1741 as a result of a volcanic eruption; its height is approximately 90 meters.

The biggest tsunami in the world

In 2004, on the islands of Sumatra and Java, a tsunami caused by a strong earthquake in the Indian Ocean turned into a major disaster. According to various sources, from 200 to 300 thousand people died - a third of a million victims! To date, this particular tsunami is considered the most destructive in history.

And the record holder for wave height is named “Lituya”. This tsunami, which swept through Lituya Bay in Alaska at a speed of 160 km/h in 1958, was triggered by a giant landslide. The wave height was estimated at 524 meters.

Meanwhile, the sea is not always dangerous. There are “friendly” seas. For example, not a single river flows into the Red Sea, but it is the cleanest in the world. .
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Waves most often calm and mesmerize the person watching them. Just imagine: the beach, the setting sun drowning in the ocean waves, one after another rolling in white foam onto the golden sand. “Idyll,” you say. Now imagine: strong gusts of wind, a cooling breeze and a huge 30-meter wave that grew right in front of you in a matter of seconds. “Idyll,” the big wave surfers will say.

Today we will talk about the most famous spots with big waves: how and where these ocean Hulks come from and who is hunting for them. Source: birdymag.ru

(Total 14 photos)

Mavericks, California

1. Perhaps, these giant waves have become the most popular and are familiar even to people far from surfing, and all thanks to the film “Wave Conquerors” (2012), which tells the real story of the young surfer Jay Moriarty, who conquered those same Mavericks. But that’s not about that now.

The spot got its name back in 1967, when three surfer friends came to surf the unnamed spot. There was a dog with them - a German shepherd named Maverick, who loved to swim next to the guys. Leaving the dog on the shore, they swam by boat to the line-up, but the dog still went after them. The boat had to be turned around in order to tie Maverick more tightly - the weather had deteriorated greatly and it was unsafe for the dog to be in the water. In terms of riding, that day was not successful: the guys were surfing close to the shore, and the giant waves rising far in the ocean seemed very dangerous to them. Returning to shore, they decided to name the place after the dog, who was much luckier that day.

2. Since then, the small town of Half Moon Bay in Southern California has become a Mecca for surfers who cannot live without deadly waves. But not for everyone. For many years, the spot was a great secret, jealously guarded only by a select few. And all the rumors about Mavericks looked more like crazy nonsense. Only in the 90s, thanks to Surfer Magazine, the spot received wide publicity and became a magnet for everyone who wanted to watch and ride the rogue waves.

3. These waves acquire such power due to the unique bottom topography: at a distance of about one and a half kilometers from the shore, the reef has depressions that, like a pump, pump up the wave with an additional volume of water coming from other deep-sea reefs. But this is only “meeting a good friend on the threshold”: the waves themselves are formed long before approaching the shores of California. Mavericks in their pristine state are echoes of storms in nearby areas of the North Pacific Ocean. Overcoming a distance of 320 km (ideal), the waves move south, driven by the westerly wind. Another important component for a large Maverick is the period with which swell waves arrive at the reefs, this period should exceed 16 seconds. When all the factors come together, a huge 25-meter wall rises in front of you.

Nazare, Portugal

4. Who would have thought that an ordinary fishing village would instantly become a surfing center of attraction? And all thanks to the recently opened spot of the same name with truly terrifying waves.

As with the Mavericks, the deep Nazaré Canyon (Canhão da Nazaré) plays into the hands of surfers. This is the largest underwater gorge in Europe, stretching along the coast for 170 km. In some places, the width of the Nazaré Canyon reaches 5 km, and the depth is about 300 m.

5. Find a surfer

6. Nazaré waves are “fed” by strong Atlantic storms, the swells of which move towards Europe. The canyon, like an arrow pointing straight to the beach of Praia do Norte, enhances the power of the waves, and the sharp difference in depth between the gorge and the reef allows the waves to grow in height, reaching 30 m, and sometimes more. There are plenty of madmen who have conquered such giants.

7. Take, for example, the Guinness record holder, American Garrett McNamara, who rode a wave 23.7 meters high in 2011. And just two years later he increased his success by conquering a 30-meter giant in the same Nazaré. The deadly St. Jude storm helped Brazilian Carlos Burla beat McNamara by 1.5 meters. By the way, Burle’s girlfriend, big wave surfer Maya Gabeira, almost lost her life after falling from a giant wave in Nazaré.

Garrett McNamara catches Nazaré's monster

Jaws, Hawaii

8. The Hawaiian spot Jaws (“Jaws”) on the northern coast of the island of Maui is happy to open its mouth for everyone from November to March. This name was given to it by local surfers in 1975 in honor of Steven Spielberg’s just-released blockbuster of the same name. The waves that arise here are really similar to the unpredictable behavior of a shark: suddenly a quite friendly wave can turn into an 18-meter monster.

9. “Jaws” arrives thanks to the storms of the big-wave entertainment-rich Pacific Ocean. These high, fast and powerful waves attract town-in-surfers, i.e. those who get caught on a wave by being towed on a jet ski. By the way, this method was invented precisely at the Jaws spot in the 1980s.

10. “Jaws” appears due to an underwater ridge that appeared as a result of a volcanic eruption. The ridge sharply slows down the rapid movement of the swell, driven by sharp gusts of wind, and the reef, concentrating this entire mass, collapses it in a certain place. In the same place where the XXL Big Wave Awards will be held on May 1.

"Jaws": a surfer for mom, a surfer for dad...

Teahupoo, Tahiti

11. The Teahupu spot (or rather, the name is pronounced “Chopu” in the local dialect) is located in the southwest of the main island of French Polynesia - Tahiti in the Pacific Ocean. Translated, the name sounds like “tear off the head” and it fully justifies itself. Of course, it appeared as a result of the bloody inter-tribal wars that happened in these parts hundreds of years ago. But these days it does not lose its relevance. And all because gigantic heavy waves rise 500 meters from the shore and crash onto reefs slightly covered by shallows, sharp as a thousand knives. This is due to the strong southwestern swell carrying the left wave, and the unique semicircular “jagged” relief of the reef, sloping steeply down, allows it to show itself in all its treacherous, ponderous glory. It seems that giants simply grow out of nowhere.

Rhys Wartenberg, surfer, traveler: “When I climbed out of the water after my first brutal “kiss” with the reef in Chopu (on my thigh), one of the surfers warming up on the shore said that I was lucky not to grab this beauty with my face. And then I realized: yes, damn it, I really am the lucky one!”

Chopu is included in Transworld Surf magazine's "Top 10 Deadly Waves" list. The full power of the “daredevil” was experienced by surfer Bruce Taerea in 2000. An unsuccessful attempt to duck dive a 4-meter wave ended in death for a professional athlete: a powerful wave pushed the athlete, throwing him onto the reef. From a broken neck and spine, Bruce fell into a coma and then died in the hospital.

Gave chopu

Pipeline, Hawaii

12. What can we say, Hawaii is the historical birthplace of surfing, attracting riders of all levels and ages to its waves. But big wave hunters have a specific point here - the Pipeline spot on the shore of the island of Oahu, or more precisely, on Banzai Beach. In winter, huge (up to 10 meters) pipes stand here, which, when closed in shallow water, add another 10 points to the danger level.

13. It is noteworthy that, depending on the size of the incoming swell, the wave on the Pipeline breaks into several peaks, the most traveled of which is First Reef. This is logical, because the reef, extending into the ocean, is divided into three parts by depressions, giving the incoming waves additional power. Encountering shallow water, this whole huge mass collapses, creating a perfect, but damn dangerous pipe.

By the way, about pipes. The Pipeline spot got its name, surprisingly, not because of the characteristics of the waves. It was 1961 when director Bruce Brown decided to film some guys on anonymous waves for his surfer film In Search of Summer. And very nearby there was work on laying underground communications in the ocean. So Brown christened the place - “The Pipeline” - very unromantically.

14. Since the 1970s, The Billabong Pipeline Masters competition has been held here annually, where the strongest athletes fight the elements for a prize of $425,000. But everything is not so rosy: since 2000, six deaths of professional surfers and photographers have been recorded here.

Of course, these are not the only places on earth where you can come face to face with huge waves. But to learn, and most importantly, to understand them all, you need to make a lot of effort. Not only physical, but also mental. After all, big wave surfing is a deadly undertaking. And for those who still dream of riding, for example, Mavericks, we have come up with the motto: “Explore. Go for a ride. Rule."

About one of the most dangerous, but at the same time the most popular surf spots in the world called Mavericks, which is located in Half Moon Bay in California. We have selected ten more dangerous surfing spots that attract extreme sports enthusiasts, despite the giant waves, bloodthirsty sharks and the risk of breaking on the rocks.

Banzai Pipeline

Located on the northern coast of the Hawaiian island of Oaksey, this spot is dangerous not so much because of the height of the waves (they reach three to four meters on average) but because of the shallow coral reefs that are easy to break on. Over the past ten years, five professional surfers have died here, including Japanese Moto Watanabe, Joaquin Velia from Puerto Rico and famous water photographer John Mozo.

Waimea Bay

Not far from the Banzai Pipeline there is another world-famous spot - Waimea Bay. It is not so shallow here, and the waves can reach 19 meters. Among the tragic incidents, the deaths of surfer Dickie Cross in 1943 and Californian Donnie Solomon in 1999 are known.

Peahi

And again the Hawaiian spot. It is located on the island of Maui, but if Waimea Bay is famous for almost a century of history, then Peahi is a relatively new place; surfers came here only in the late 1990s. According to surfer Mark Healy, Peahi's waves are the fastest in the world, and their crests crash against 300-meter cliffs.

Teahupo

This spot is located in the southwest of Tahiti, on one of the islands of the French Polynesia archipelago. Translated, the name of the spot means “tear off your head”; the waves here fully correspond to this name. Since 2000, there have been five deaths on Teahupoo, the most high-profile of which was the death of professional surfer Brice Terea, who was caught on the crest of a wave and fell from it directly onto the reef.

Dungeons

The coast of South Africa near Hout Bay, where this spot is located, is famous for the largest number of sharks in the world. The predators that live here are known for swimming up to their prey at great speed and flying out of the water completely, sinking their fangs into it. The waves at this spot reach 20 meters, and additional difficulties for extreme sports enthusiasts are created by the extremely low water temperature and huge underwater boulders.

Ghost Tree

All the same dangers can be experienced in North America - on Pebble Beach in northern California. Here are the coldest waves in the world, which are also infested with great white sharks. The height of the waves can reach 25 meters. In 2007, popular Californian surfer Peter Davi died in the waters of Ghost Tree.

Cyclops

Located on the south coast of Western Australia, the Cyclops spot is not as popular as other places on this list; due to its inaccessibility, it can only be reached by boat or jet ski, and the journey will take several hours. The crests of the largest waves in this spot break on the coral reef, so any mistake by a surfer here can be fatal.

Praia do Norte

The spot is located in the Portuguese town of Nazare - in an underwater canyon five kilometers deep and several hundred kilometers long, some of the most destructive waves in the world are born. It was here that American surfer Garrett McNamara set a world record by overcoming the highest wave in history - more than 23 meters.

Meñakoz

Europe cannot boast of spots as attractive for extreme sports as America and Australia, but it also has its own dangerous beaches. The main one is Meñakoz, located in northern Spain, near Bilbao. The highest waves in Europe reach six meters, and the large number of sharp stones gives the coast an additional danger.

New Smyrna

The beach in Florida is not distinguished by multi-meter waves or dangerous reefs, but the spot is known to all surfing fans because of the huge number of sharks. Every year, sharks make dozens of attacks on athletes conquering the waves of New Smyrna, most of which end in death.

Surfing was once the privilege of royalty on the island of Tahiti. And it was not just entertainment, but a ritual that confirmed and strengthened the authority and status of the ruler. Or depriving him. And although surfing has now become a popular sport, it is still not accessible to everyone. And it seems that modern surfers have inherited the ideology of the Polynesians: the real “kings” strive to conquer the highest, most powerful and most dangerous waves.

Every surfer dreams of one day conquering the terrible and ruthless water element. We will tell you about the ten most dangerous and highest waves for surfing.

Pipeline. Oahu Island, Hawaii, USA

This wave has already accounted for seven lives. Its height on average ranges from one to five meters. It is far from the title of “highest”; in fact, the danger lies at the bottom of the ocean. The wave crashes onto a mercilessly barbed reef that maims and kills surfers. However, Pipeline is not becoming less popular. There are still many athletes at the site where the wave forms, hungry for danger and adventure. Apparently the game is worth the candle.

The main problem of surfing in these places is the lack of safe swimming areas, which creates difficulties for the rescue service. Reaching an injured or unconscious surfer on a jet ski is very difficult. Therefore, athletes rely on their own preparation and the ability to hold their breath for a long time.

How to get there

The beach where Pipeline is formed is located near the small town of Pipekea and is called Pipeline Beach. The distance from Honolulu Airport to the beach is 50 km, travel time is about an hour.

From Honolulu Airport, take I-H-1 W (JBPHH), then take I-H-1 W and continue towards Wilikina Dr, and then take HI-803 towards HI-83 E, then continue towards HI-83 W (Pupukea). The beach is located on Kamehameha Highway.

Waimea. Oahu Island, Hawaii, USA

In winter, the peaceful and calm Pacific Ocean is inhabited by giant twenty-meter monsters - children of the storms of the North Pacific Ocean. The Waimea wave is formed next door to the Banzai Pipeline and is considered one of the first “monsters” conquered by the pioneers in the history of surfing.

Large waves have claimed the lives of more than one athlete, but it seems that this only enhances the feeling of excitement. When the waves reach their peak, the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational holds a big wave surfing competition.

How to get there

To try your luck and take risks, you don’t need to rent a scooter and a helicopter. You just need to get to Waimea Beach, which is located on Kamehameha Highway, and take your board with you or rent one there on the beach. The landmark is Waimea Bay Beach Park.

Jaw. Hawaii, USA

The name of the wave Jaw (translated into Russian as “jaws”) speaks for itself. Local surfers nicknamed her in 1975 in honor of the film of the same name released that same year.

The wave “slams” with the speed of the jaws of a predatory animal and is just as merciless to any delay. To be fair, it is worth noting that the analogy with the film was not drawn by chance: there are really many types of sharks in these places - from the usual gray ones to leopard and Brazilian luminous ones.

The wave reaches a height of 18 meters. This extreme size is formed by an underwater reef. The only way to try to conquer the wave is to use a jet ski, which will take you to the place where the wave forms. You can’t handle this on your own, otherwise you might fall down from a 15-meter “wall.” By the way, in addition to a jet ski, it would be nice to have a helicopter that will monitor your safety from above.

An Australian surfer once surfed this wave at night. It seems that this athlete has not only a body of steel, but also nerves.

How to get there

Jaws Beach, where the namesake wave is formed, is located five kilometers west of Paia, an area on the north coast of the island of Maui.

The Hana Highway stretches along the entire coast. The driver's task is to access it from any adjacent street and then drive north until turning right between road signs 13 and 14. The dirt road leads directly to the beach and one of the most dangerous waves on the planet.

Mavericks. San Francisco, California, USA

The Mavericks wave reaches a height of 24 meters. For a second, this is almost a nine-story building. In addition, among the dangers are sharks. Although the opportunity to get up close and personal with these inhabitants of the underwater world is extremely small, the chances are one in a million. But the very awareness of the possibility of such a meeting forces one to periodically glance around the ocean in the hope not to miss the approaching “guests”.

In 1994, a wave claimed the life of surfer Mark Fu. Rescuers were unable to find the athlete’s body for several hours. Many people assume that the leash (the rope, thanks to which the board will not be lost after the first fall), caught on the reef and did not allow it to float to the surface. In 2011, two more athletes failed to compete with the Mavericks.

How to get there

By car

To access Mavericks Beach from Highway 1, drive through the Half Moon Bay Community, then turn north onto West Point Avenue and drive to the Pillar Point Marsh parking lot at the end of the road. From the parking area you need to go down to the harbor and turn right. Follow the path to the pier.

By bus:

Travel time from the city to the beach is 50 minutes, the fare is $2.25.

At the intersection of Kelly Ave and Church Street there is a stop from which SamTrans bus No. 17 departs. You need to travel 18 stops to Pillar Point Harbor. From the stop, Mavericks Beach is a 1.7 km walk. Turn left onto Harvard Ave and walk to the end of the road. Then turn right onto West Point Ave and continue to the Pillar Point Marsh parking lot. Go down to the harbor and turn right. Follow the path to the pier.

Teahupoo. Tahiti, French Polynesia

Teaupoo is called the queen of waves. She is admired and feared at the same time by the most experienced surfers. It was conquered relatively recently: less than twenty years ago. The first was the fearless guru of big waves - Laird Hamilton, who, before taking a risk, thoroughly studied all the possible pitfalls. Since then, Teaupoo Beach has attracted surfers from all over the world.

Translated from the local language, “Teayupoo” means “place of skulls or headless.” Five people folded their heads at the “queen’s” feet, including a surfer who stood on his board before he could walk confidently.

The beach where you can catch Teaupoo is where Billabong hosts the world surfing championships every year. Riding such a wave and becoming the first means becoming the owner of a check for five hundred thousand dollars and joining the world elite of this sport.

How to get there

By bus:

Every day except Sunday, a bus with orange stripes and the word “Teahupoo” leaves in front of the Papeete airport entrance. The place where surfers ride is located 800 meters from the shore. To get there, you need to rent a boat. There are many different companies on the shore that provide this service. One of them is Taxi Boat&Surf Tahiti.

By car:

The distance from Papeete to Teaupoo is 76.7 km, travel time is 1 hour 37 minutes.

From the capital of French Polynesia, Papeete (Tahiti Island), you can easily get from the airport to the beach by rented car. Follow the main road along the coast. After about 1.5 hours you will reach the fishing village of Teahupoo. Upon entering the village, after 100 metres, turn right into Marina de Teahupoo. At the end of the street is Taxi Boat&Surf Tahiti, where you can rent a boat and other surfing equipment.

Nazare. Lisbon, Portugal

This wave is a real water monster on the Praia de Nazare beach - its height reaches 30 meters. This giant owes its record size to its rare underwater geography, or more precisely, to the canyon - a large gorge whose depth reaches 5 kilometers.

In 2013, daredevil Garrett McNamara rode down this 30-meter “wall” and broke the world record listed in the Guinness Book of Records. At the lighthouse in Nazaré there is a small museum in honor of the record holder.

Athlete Maya Gabeira also risked riding the powerful elements. The attempt was unsuccessful. Big waver Brazilian Carlos Burle got even for this lady and beat McNamara by 1.5 meters.

How to get there

By car:

From Lisbon Airport, take the 2ᵅ circular road north. Then take the CRIL exit and head towards Cascais until the junction with the A8. Take the "Leiria" sign and continue until you reach Nazare.

By bus:

There is no direct route to Nazaré. You need to get from the airport to the Sete Rios bus terminal. This can be done either by taxi or by Aerobus 3, which runs every half hour from the airport building (fare €3.50). Then you need to change to the Rede-Expressos bus. Travel time is approximately two hours. Follow this website for schedules and exact rates.

Shipstern Bluff. Tasmania, Australia

The Shipstern Bluff wave was discovered by a local surfer back in 1986, but kept everything a secret for a long time. However, you can’t hide an awl in a bag. In 2000, the location was filled with surfers from all over the world, despite the fact that getting to the place is extremely difficult and the riding conditions are not the most favorable. If you do dare, take a thick wetsuit, neoprene slippers and a balaclava with you, because the water temperature is very low - you won't be able to splash around.

The only way to get to the wave is to rent a boat from the pier. But they say all the obstacles are worth it.

How to get there

Take the Port Arthur road from Nubeena, then via Highcroft Road to Stromlea Rd. You need to go to the end of Stromlea Road, which will take you to Cape Raoul Nat.Park. In the parking lot you will see a sign that says "Shipstern Bluff". Follow the signs and after a couple of hours of hiking through the national park, you will come to the Shipstern Bluff beach lookout.

Cyclopos. Australia

The name “Cyclops” speaks for itself - an impregnable monster that is difficult to defeat even with the help of a jet ski. According to the ten-point school, the difficulty level is rated at eleven - the wave rises almost vertically. Legendary big waver Ken Bradshaw, seeing Cyclops, turned around and left without making a single attempt.

Among the obvious disadvantages: the distance of the nearest medical station from the place where the wave is formed (about two hours’ drive).

How to get there

By plane:

The Cyclopos wave forms off the coast of Western Australia, near the town of Esperance. From Perth to Esperance you can travel by plane using local airlines. Travel time is 1 hour 35 minutes.

By bus:

The bus departs from East Perth Railway station. Check the website for the schedule.

Ghost Trees. California, USA

The wave at Pebble Beach got its name in honor of the white cypress trees growing along the shore. From English “ghost trees” is translated as “ghost trees”.

This wave reaches 25 meters in height and 6 in width. Perhaps the coldest and most “shark-populated” place in our top ten. It is advisable to have a thick wetsuit with a special coloring for protection against sharks, which was developed in Australia specifically for surfers, taking into account the physical characteristics of sharks’ vision.

How to get there

Pebble Beach is located in the city of Monterey, which was proclaimed the first capital of California. You can get to the beach where you can catch this wave by car from the city of San Jose along Highway 101. The distance from San Jose to Monterey is 116 km, travel time is 1 hour 11 minutes.

Dungeons. Cape Town, South Africa

Dungeons translates to "prison". The wave was awarded this name by a local athlete who was covered by two eight-meter waves in a row.

The wave crashes on the rocks in a place called Shark Alley, and this nickname is no coincidence. The fact is that Dungeons is located near the habitat of fur seals, which are the main food in the diet of sharks.

Since 2000, Red Bull has held the Big Wave competition for surfers here.

How to get there

The site of the Prison can only be reached by boat, which can be rented from Bay Harbor. The harbor is located in the town of Hout Bay near Cape Town. It can be reached from the city center by bus number 108 from Helgarda station on Victoria Ave. Get off at the seventh stop – Atlantic Skipper. Then walk a couple of minutes down the avenue to the pier.

And his impressions of the fall. One can easily imagine that without proper preparation, riding many waves, if not costing your life, can lead to serious injuries. TransWorld SURF magazine was tasked with finding the most dangerous waves in the world and offered its top ten of those that should only be ridden by professionals of the appropriate level.

Map of the most dangerous waves in the world (TransWorld SURF version)

Banzai Pipeline

Located on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, Pipeline is without a doubt the most powerful and deadly wave in the world. Thrusting powerful left and right (Backdoor) waves break close to the shore over a coral reef with many cracks.

Bad start on the Pipeline. Photo: Brian Bielman

Over the years, the Pipeline has claimed the lives of more people than all other spots combined. Those killed include local bodyboarder Joshua Nakata in March 2008, renowned water photographer John Mozo in February 2005, Tahiti pro surfer Malik Joex in December 2005, Japanese pro surfer Moto Watanabe in January 2004, and veteran Puerto Rican surfer Joaquin Velia in January. 2007. The list of victims goes on...

Ironically, the most dangerous days on Pipeline are not those when the forecast is at its worst, but when the swell is growing quickly and the waves begin to rise sharply closer to shore over the inner part of the shallow reef. Despite the well-known dangers, Pipeline remains one of the most crowded lineups in the world. According to the Pipeline Master title holder: “On Pipeline you are always on a knife's edge. You're always hanging by a thread. You're never completely in control."

Ghost Trees

Located inland from Pebble Beach in northern California, this wave is teeming and colder than most spots in the world. Add in the huge boulders scattered across the beach and bottom, and you get the picture of the most dangerous wave in California.

Alistair Craft on the wave. Photo: Nelly

This deadly right-hand wave, usually requiring towing by jet ski, recently claimed the life of renowned Californian surfer Peter Davi. In order for it to work, it requires a collapse of gigantic proportions, and when this happens, Ghost Trees accumulates enormous energy from the North Pacific Ocean, and the height of the wave can reach 80 feet (25 meters) with 20 feet of whitewater, disfiguring wave wall. A recent find, Ghost Trees attracts only the most experienced of bigwave surfers.

Mavericks

Picture yourself as a young Jeff Clark, walking home from school every day along the cliffs of Half Moon Bay in northern California, looking at this giant right-hander a few hundred meters offshore. The wind is howling, the air is cold, the water temperature is approaching freezing, and great white sharks the size of school buses prowl beneath the surface.

Local from California Ben Andrews on Mavericks. Photo: Jack English

In 1994, Mavericks claimed the life of legendary bigwave surfer Mark Foo. The heavy crest of the wave is notorious for its brutal power. Waves can crush you underwater and slam you into boulders the size of houses, and there are also shark attacks. The waves can be sheer and sharp, and when people talk about a freight train on the water, this is what they mean.

Teahupoo

Rated as one of the most challenging waves in the world, Teahupu is located on the southwestern tip of Tahiti, the main island of the French Polynesian archipelago. An insanely heavy left wave is half a mile offshore and a few inches above a live, razor-sharp reef.

Even the best can make mistakes. Bruce Irons. Photo: Jones

What makes Teahupoo unique is the special nature of the wave - during a big swell it looks as if the ocean is bending over itself, rather than like a normal wave. Teahupoo, or Kumbaya as it was once known, ended the life of one surfer, Tahitian Brice Terea, who, while trying to dive under the 12-foot monster, was caught by a wave crest and thrown onto the reef below. Nicknamed "The World's Heaviest Wave", Teahupoo lives up to its nickname every time a huge southwesterly swell hits Tahiti. Another scary fact: Teahupoo translated means something like “tear off the head,” which is associated with local tribal wars that happened here hundreds of years ago.

Waimea

The north coast of Oahu is packed with world-class waves, and just off the Pipeline is the bay where the granddaddy of them all, Waimea, “rests.” While the boom in tau-in surfing is shifting the focus of big wave surfers toward offshore reefs, Waimea remains the litmus test for big waves around the world. A life-threatening event, Waimea has defined the standard of big wave surfing for 40 years, and the competition in honor is one of the most respected surfing events in the world and is only held if the swell reaches a minimum height of 25 feet.

Bruce Irons on Waimea. Photo: Checkwood

With a combination of bone-crushing shorebreaks and waves reaching heights of 60 feet, Waimea claimed the lives of Dickie Cross in 1943 and Californian professional surfer Donnie Solomon in 1999. Legendary surfer Titus Kinimaka broke his hip after a bad wipeout in 1989. As Hawaiian pro-surfer/shaper Dennis Pang said about the wipeouts on Waimea, “On Pipeline, when you're underwater, everything is white, but on Sunset, everything is gray. Waimea is black.”

Shipstern Bluff

If there is one wave that could be a mirror image of Teahupoo, it is Shipstern Bluff, located in the south of the island of Tasmania. The wave can be reached either by a two-hour walk through the Tasmanian National Park or by a long and bumpy boat ride from the nearest port.

Australian surfer Lauri Towner at Shipstern Bluff. Photo: Jones

The bottom on Shipstern is a granite slab that absorbs the blows of giant swells traveling from the deep part of the ocean and splashing out all their energy on this reef. The wave appears directly opposite the cape littered with boulders, which adds even more risk to an already almost impossible start. Add to that the fact that you have to wear a 4/3 thick wetsuit and surf shoes almost all year round, and you can guess that only the most frostbitten guys ride this wave.

Dungeons

Situated on the South African coast near Hout Bay (Cape Town), Dungeons not only offers the danger of some of the most serious waves on the planet, but is also located in an area with the highest number in the world.

Mark Healey in free fall at Dungeons. Photo: property of Red Bull BWA

It so happens that the northern part of the coast of Cape Town is a refuge for thousands of seals who have chosen a small island as their home. There are tons of great white sharks surrounding the area, just waiting for the seals to enter the “death zone” that includes the area around the island. These sharks are also known throughout the world for their style of attacking victims, grabbing them from below and flying completely out of the water.

In addition to this danger, Dungeons is known for its near-freezing water temperatures, huge underwater boulders, and forces that can keep you submerged longer than anywhere else in the world. Considering that this spot got its name from a local surfer who was underwater for two consecutive 25-foot giants, it's easy to imagine why this right-hand wave has been the site of Red Bull's bigwave competition since 2000. Plus, the only way to get to the wave is by boat, so it's best to be among the top jet ski teams before heading to Dungeons.

Cyclops

On our list, Cyclops is the least tested wave, and for good reason. Situated opposite the Esperance coast in Western Australia (7 hours from Perce), Cyclops is only accessible by boat. Although still new to the world surfing radar, this wave has the heaviest and largest crest in the world.

Duckdive on Cyclops? No options! Photo: Scott

The difference in depth here is colossal, and when the giant swells come, they unleash all their power on the razor-sharp coral reef. This causes Cyclops to form a wave unlike any other in the world, practically swallowing itself. Cyclops earns its name for its oval trumpets, which are created when a thick ridge falls onto the reef. But not every wave here is perfect; most of it is so shapeless that you can easily shit your pants. Even if you manage to find the right spot, good luck with the launch and the shallow, deadly reef below.

Ours

In New South Wales (Australia) there is a wave so tough that even Pancho Sullivan once admitted that he didn’t want anything to do with it. Nestled in Carnelian National Park, Aurs is a steep, fast, powerful right-hander crashing against a huge rock. Even if you manage to take off, which most likely won’t happen, you will have to drive at full speed through a pipe that wants to tear you into pieces. And if you fail to get out of the pipe, you will be pinned to the cliff that we have already mentioned. It's also a favorite spot for the notorious Bra Boys; so if they're on the water, which only happens when it's pumping, you don't want to be there. If the wave doesn't kill you, the locals will.

Wave Aurs. Photo: Jones

New Smyrna

Compared to the other waves on our list, New Smyrna is just baby talk when it comes to wave strength and energy, although it is one of the best in Florida. When it’s pumping, it can be one of the top spots in the region, but on the other hand, everyone knows about it.

Local to New Smyrna. Photo: Dorsey

So, the question arises, why did this spot make it onto our list? Well, we have 18 reasons why New Smyrna ended up here, and they can all be summed up in one word - . Dubbed the "Shark Attack Capital of the World," New Smyrna had 18 attacks in 2008, which is within the normal range for a place where attacks occur year-round.

Located at the southern end of Ponsa Bay, New Smyrna is famous for its fishing, which also means sharks are around. And since most attacks come from bull sharks, one of the most dangerous in the world, you're practically risking your life riding this wave.