What a Baku tourist needs to know. What you need to know before traveling to Baku: travel preparation. What to pay attention to

Just a few years ago, the capital of Azerbaijan could not be called a popular tourist city, but now everything is changing rapidly. The main city of our closest neighbor turns out to be no less interesting than other European cities.

Thanks to the oil industry, Baku is growing and actively developing. Urban planners have grandiose plans for the development of the city, but even now it has something to surprise even sophisticated tourists.

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What to see

The Baku Old City, locally known as Icheri Sheher, surrounded by a perfectly preserved fortress wall, is vividly depicted in the film “The Diamond Arm” - it was in Baku in 1968 that the “foreign” episodes of the cult film were filmed.

The Old Town has a special atmosphere; small hotels, ancient mosques, baths, cafes and numerous souvenir shops are hidden in its cozy cobblestone alleys.

Anna Ivanova

Icheri Sheher and its two main pearls - the Maiden Tower and the Palace of the Shirvanshahs - are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

What impresses Baku most is the contrast of ancient and modern architecture.

The old city and the glass skyscrapers “Flame Towers” ​​visible from everywhere in one frame are the calling card of the metropolis; you will see them on any postcards.

123RF/andreyshevchenko

Built five years ago, the Flame Towers are the pride of Baku and are now the tallest buildings in the city. Next to the towers there is a large observation deck, which offers an excellent view of the entire Baku Bay. You can get there by free funicular, which departs from the embankment.

In addition to the three notable towers, Baku has a lot of other interesting modern projects. The first one you will most likely see is the unusual building of the international airport. The most impressive, without any doubt, must be recognized as the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center, designed by the famous Iranian architect Zaha Hadid. A huge white structure with a streamlined shape, entirely woven from smooth lines with intricate curves, was recognized as the best building in the world in 2014.

Anna Ivanova

The projects that are yet to be implemented are no less impressive. A lotus-shaped shopping center and a grandiose crescent hotel are under construction; the White City is growing on the shores of the Caspian Sea - a promising area of ​​new buildings of different architectural styles and purposes. The scale of all these projects reflects Baku’s desire to stand on par with the largest European capitals. As well as the holding of the Formula 1 Grand Prix since 2016 on a track laid in the very center, around the Old Town.

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In addition to its external appearance, Baku has something to show from the inside: local museums make full use of interactive technologies. It is worth climbing the Maiden Tower, on several floors of which its main legends are told in detail; explore the exhibition of the dimly lit halls of the Shirvanshahs' Palace to delve into the history of Azerbaijan; then move on to contemporary art at the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center, where, in addition to futuristic interiors, you can see models of the most beautiful buildings in the city.

Anna Ivanova

Don't miss the Carpet Museum, an unusual building designed in the shape of a rolled carpet, where creations from different schools of carpet weaving are exhibited.

Not all the charm of Baku can be appreciated in daylight, so don’t miss the opportunity to walk around the city in the evening when it gets dark. The spectacular illumination of the streets, the illumination of buildings and fountains cannot fail to impress. The Flame Towers with their changing lighting are especially good at this time of day.

A spoon of tar

Everything can’t be exceptionally good—every city has its drawbacks. In Baku, first of all, be prepared for traffic jams, especially in the historical center, where there are many narrow streets and problems with parking.

The second thing that may unpleasantly surprise you is the abundance of construction projects. This is the other side of a rapidly growing city, a massive and natural phenomenon.

Anna Ivanova

Non-smoking tourists will inevitably encounter problems when visiting Baku restaurants. There is no smoking ban in Azerbaijan, nor is there any division into smoking and non-smoking rooms. You will have to endure cigarette smoke in the hall or choose sparsely populated establishments where you are less likely to encounter smoking patrons at the next table.

What to try

One of the main advantages of Baku is its national cuisine, which includes many lamb dishes, which Azerbaijanis know how to cook like no other. These are the well-known kutabs, dolma, lula-kebab, lesser-known jiz-byz, saj, piti, kyufta-bozbash, dushbara and several types of pilaf.

123RF/olepeshkina

In addition, they are no less specialists in exquisite oriental desserts.

All these dishes are not only tasty, but also very affordable, especially now, when the exchange rate of the Azerbaijani manat has fallen along with the price of oil.

Attitude towards Russian tourists

Since Azerbaijan is a former Soviet republic, many local residents have close ties to Russia. Russian tourists are treated extremely kindly; in some homely establishments they may ask with interest where you are from, and then bring you a treat from the restaurant.

Almost all local residents in Baku speak Russian, although in some situations they may switch to English.

When to go

Azerbaijan is a sunny country, so there is a high probability of experiencing clear weather at any time of the year. The coldest month is January, during which time there is snow in the mountains and strong winds blow throughout the country. Whereas on the coast (where Baku is located) there is no snow, but the temperature can fluctuate from 0 to 12 degrees Celsius, and this is quite comfortable for walking around the city.

123RF/Magdalena Paluchowska

For those who are not attracted to traveling in the cold season, it is better to choose the warm season: already in April everything is in bloom on the coast, and in May the real summer begins. We should also not forget that the Azerbaijani capital is located on the shores of the Caspian Sea, and there are equipped beaches in the vicinity of Baku.

To explore any major city you need to spend about 3-4 days. Baku is no exception, but if you want to see other places in addition to the capital, you should budget more time, depending on the scope of your plans.

How to navigate

Perhaps the best way to travel for a tourist is on foot. Thanks to walking, you can better navigate the city and gradually penetrate into its very essence.

But not all distances are suitable for the legs; sometimes you cannot do without transport. In the case of Baku, it’s worth using the metro - at least to get an idea of ​​it.

For short distances, the local taxi "Eggplant" is good - these are cabs purchased in London for Eurovision 2012 - spacious, comfortable taxis that travel on a meter. To travel to and from the airport, you can use the well-known Uber taxi system: calling a car is convenient, since there is free Wi-Fi at the airport.

What to bring

Numerous souvenir shops in the Old City sell famous carpets, elements of Azerbaijani clothing and household textiles. Pay attention to the colorful jewelry and national dishes, for example, armudas (pear-shaped tea glasses) or original table souvenirs in the form of pomegranates.

123RF/alexmama

It’s also worth taking a closer look at regional food and drinks - friends and family will certainly be happy with oriental sweets and good wine.

At the end of May 2018, a group of nine tourists (8 women and one man) challenged themselves: could they drive around three countries and one republic without going crazy from the impressions? In 17 days they visited Dagestan, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan. This story is about the Republic of Azerbaijan.

More than 9 million people live in Azerbaijan. It is a secular state, the majority of whose residents profess Islam. Today, thousands of tourists flock there to see the place where the East meets the West. In addition, Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, is included in the list of the most beautiful cities in the world.

Baku is called the city of lights and the city of winds. I called it the white city. Look how white everything is around - like a stone desert.

We spent three days in Azerbaijan at the end of May. We looked for a booked hostel on Babek Avenue, but never found it. But they found a prince on a white horse, a friend and son-in-law. But let's not get too far ahead of ourselves - let's talk about everything in order.

Suitcase, money, passport, key. What do these words have in common? That's right, travel! The journey begins with preparation.

We prepared for the trip for two months: we gathered a group, plotted routes, studied the sights - no one from our company had been to Azerbaijan before.

A group of tourists leaves Nizhny Novgorod. Baku is 2213 km away or approximately 5 days, 5 hours and 5 minutes.

Making a plan

When going on a long road trip, it is important to plan everything down to the smallest detail. How to get there, where to sleep, what to eat, what to take, where to go? We tried to answer these and other questions in advance.

1. How to get there? We studied maps and reviews from other travelers to plan our route. For example, they will not be allowed into Azerbaijan after Armenia. Because there is a conflict between countries. Would we have known about this if we had not read a good hundred reviews a couple of months before the trip? Is not a fact! Read reviews from previous travelers in advance.
2. How much should I take? We decided to collect 20 thousand rubles per person - this is money for gasoline, overnight accommodation, a common table and unforeseen expenses. It turned out to be 180,000. We divided the amount by four, since this is the budget of 4 countries, and in the end 45,000 went to Azerbaijan. This amount was quite enough for our group: we didn’t indulge in luxury, but we didn’t deprive ourselves of excursions and wine.
3. Where to sleep? We booked a hostel in advance, but were unable to get there. We'll talk more about this later. However, our case is rather an exception, so we recommend that everyone else book beds in advance. Moreover, the money was returned to us.
4. What is? We decided that we cook on our own twice a day and visit a cafe once - so we try local food, and do not go bankrupt in the process. Who is responsible for cooking and who is responsible for washing dishes was also discussed in advance.
5. What to take? Our vacation was more sports than beach or entertainment. And the things in the suitcase were selected based on this remark: sneakers, shorts, comfortable clothes.
6. Where to go? We looked at the sights of Baku in advance and decided that for our first trip it would be enough for us to see the city center - Baku is included in the list of the ten most beautiful cities in the world - the old city and the Caspian Sea. We don’t spend money on a guide - we Google and read.

Light snack at a gas station on the way to Azerbaijan. Still on the Russian side.

Note: The Republic of Azerbaijan is a Muslim country. They look bad at exposed ankles and cleavage. If you want to avoid sidelong glances, choose your wardrobe more carefully.

We were in Azerbaijan at the end of May. The thermometer had not yet reached its maximum height, and we were not hot in knee-length trousers and sundresses. However, in the city center there are many locals who, for the sake of world fashion, allow themselves to wear shorts and other revealing looks.

Useful applications

Today, the Internet is replete with an abundance of applications for travelers: from Google maps to virtual guides. We have collected the top 10 most useful in our opinion:

1. Diary. You can write everything down here so you don’t forget anything.
2. Calculator (the one on your mobile phone will do). Will help you create a travel budget.
3. Translator . When translation difficulties arise.
4. Calculation of fuel consumption. When traveling on your own, it is very important to know how much money you will spend on gasoline. We know in advance how much a plane or train ticket costs. You can also calculate the cost of a car ticket.
5. Google Maps . Moreover, our experience shows that it is better to download them rather than use them online. Different situations may arise on the road; it is better if you have a good compass up your sleeve.
6. Currency Converter . Convert manats to rubles, rubles to manats, dollars to rubles, manats to dollars - in order not to get confused with all this, you need a currency converter.
7. - on aggregators you can find accommodation to suit your budget and taste.
8. Audio tour. The guide in your pocket automatically begins to talk about objects as you approach them.
9. audio guides and excursion routes have also been selected, and the service also connects strangers for joint trips so that you can save money.
10. Couchsurfing - people invite you to stay with them for free.

Azerbaijanis use the Latin alphabet, but in Soviet times they wrote in Cyrillic.

In addition to services, you can look in advance at the websites of local museums, cinemas, shops to understand the average cost of services in the country, book tickets and, based on reviews, figure out in advance whether it’s worth going there.

• State Museum of Musical Culture of Azerbaijan

How to prepare a car for travel?

When traveling on your own, it is very important to check your motor and wheels in advance. This will be done best in special diagnostic centers. We would not recommend relying on chance. On the way to Azerbaijan you will encounter mountain roads, serpentines and horsemen. Do you want to take risks?

In general, when talking about preparing a car for a trip, we would divide it into three points.

1. Checking the "health" of the car.
2. Checking documents: passport, driver's license, property rights - everything should be at hand. You should also make sure that you have paid your car tax and have no outstanding fines. Otherwise, the border may not be opened for you.
3. First aid kit. There should always be a first aid kit in the car - this is a priori, a fact!

We had two Nissan cars and three drivers for nine of us. When traveling around the city, a personal car is more of a plus than a minus. But it’s more convenient to get to the resort by plane or with fewer passengers. We drove quite tightly. But, as they say, in cramped conditions, don’t be offended. To warm up, we made green parking lots.

Green parking lot in an almost lavender field.

Salam Azerbaijan [Hello, Azerbaijan]!

Border crossing

Azerbaijan has five land borders: with Russia, Armenia, Turkey, Georgia, Iran and Armenia. The border between Armenia and Azerbaijan is closed - there is a conflict.

Of the three borders that we crossed during our trip, Azerbaijani customs officers are the fiercest. At first, they asked us for a long time whether we were really Russians - each of the nine, as if they couldn’t tell by their faces! Then they clarified whether we maintained relations with Armenia, why we were going to Baku, etc.

At the end of customs control, they asked to empty the entire trunk! And we were driving from the Izberbash Brandy Factory and were already quite loaded. It was very difficult for us to empty the trunk. Only the compliment made by the customs officer somehow brightened up the impression of the border.

Long, difficult, hard! We didn't like the border!

Watching the sunrise in the car

Search for a hostel, or sightseeing auto tour of Baku

As soon as we entered Azerbaijan, the adventure began. The Internet there is generally expensive, and in roaming mode it’s a direct path to ruin. Our money in our mobile account was immediately eaten up by online Google maps. In a foreign country we were left without maps and without the Internet. We got to Baku blindly.

Note: Internet in Azerbaijan is expensive, but almost every establishment has free Wi-Fi.

On the website where we booked a hostel from home, it was said that Babek Avenue is located a few kilometers from the city center. We drove into the center and started looking for Babek on the signs. Signs indicated to go straight. We went straight - we arrived in the wrong place. We went back - again we arrived in the wrong place. As a result, we drove around half of Baku - there is no Babek Avenue!

Azerbaijani streets. Center

We stopped at the store. Those who smoke smoked, calmed down and began asking passers-by: “Excuse me, how can we get to Babek?” It turned out that passersby did not understand Russian. Someone was smoking nervously, someone was reading indifferently (this is the author), and someone was looking out for passers-by who could help us. He came to the rescue.

- Excuse me, you are looking at me like that, do you want to know something?

- Yes. But we will speak Russian.

- No problem.

We explained the situation. Nice young man... Remember that there were eight of us women? And the six older ones began vying with each other to talk about this to the two younger ones, so that the latter would come out and show themselves. But we didn’t want to get out of the car. Fortunately, the young man did not refuse to help us. But the fact that he found a wife in this way is a completely different story.

The streets, the houses - everything is beautiful.

There is a very aggressive movement in Azerbaijan. Cars fly like lightning flashes. That is why, just starting to follow our new acquaintance, the third car quickly fell behind the first two. At one of the turns, other cars simply didn’t let us through, and when they did, our trail disappeared.

We returned to the store parking lot to find a new guide. This time we found him quickly - he was a middle-aged Azerbaijani who, in fact, was in a hurry to get to work, but could not refuse us. He rode ahead, cutting across the road, and we tried our best to keep up with him. But Babek is still gone.

It turned out that it was quite difficult for Azerbaijanis to find our address. The driver-guide stopped every few kilometers to clarify the route. We drove for another half hour through traffic jams and thorns and were already somewhere very close when an SMS arrived on the phone from an unfamiliar number:

"Go to the Botanical Garden"

We signaled to our guide to stop. He got out of the car, listened to us, sighed heavily, but didn’t give up halfway. He just said the legendary phrase:

Oleg, I noticed that you are driving a little slowly.

From the Botanical Garden

When we got to the Botanical Garden, part of our group was there, making an order for lunch at a cafe on the territory of the Botanical Garden. We thanked the man who drove us around the city for free, and said goodbye to him, giving him a box of chocolates WITH LIQUOR!

It was later that we learned that most of the Azerbaijanis obediently follow the Koran and do not drink wine. That is, sweets with liqueur are generally not a suitable option for thanking someone.

Note: Most Azerbaijanis do not drink, do not eat pork, and pray five times a day.

While half of the group was looking for Babek, the other was investigating. It turns out that the address we need on the avenue is not 10 minutes from the center, but in the middle of nowhere. That is, it really begins near the center, and ends unknown where. But this is not the worst thing: for a month and a half now they have not provided housing for tourists! But there was either a glitch on the site, or some other misunderstanding...

National character

Our new young acquaintance, whose name is Samir, left us for lunch and returned to work. He promised to arrive in a couple of hours and during this time to find us a suitable inexpensive option for housing for three days.

The cafe was a long narrow street with separate guest rooms hidden on the right and left. Azerbaijanis generally like to be alone.

Cafe near the Botanical Garden

We ordered some local dishes. Over lunch we discussed the Baku driving style, the locals who are so willing to help if they understand Russian, plans for the remaining two days, because half past twelve was already coming to an end, and we still hadn’t unloaded our suitcases.

There are many European-style establishments in Baku, but it is much more interesting to visit those filled with oriental flavor: with carpets, armouds and oriental sweets.

Then we spent two hours in the Botanical Garden, walking along the paths, looking at the exhibition of roses and other plants, taking photographs, reading... In other words, we passed the time as best we could. We even started to worry, maybe we shouldn’t wait for Samir, but go looking for housing ourselves?

Blooming water lilies

Rose exhibition

However, exactly two hours later the phone rang. Samir said that he had found an apartment for us, now they are preparing it, and he is already on his way to pick us up.

This is where the story with Babeko ends, and the story of love, oh, vacation, of course, begins.

We wait a couple of hours and have already climbed every tree in the Botanical Garden.

On the way to the rented apartment we stopped in Icheri Sheher - the old city. But we decided to explore its sights another time. We just went into the store, bought it using a magnet, and went to look at the apartment.

Carpets are the property of the republic, each one is like a work of art.

We wanted to quickly take a shower, change clothes and feel like a human being. It was the second day since we were on the road.

They found an excellent apartment for us. Three rooms almost in the central part of the city on the 19th floor. The view from the window is stunning: the famous Baku flame towers are at arm's length from us. There was one thing: there weren’t enough beds in our new apartment for everyone. Some had to sleep on the floor.

The Flame Towers are on the list of attractions for which thousands of tourists from all over the world travel to Baku.

Our new acquaintance, already almost a friend, left us to settle down and went back to work. Yes, it’s not for nothing that Azerbaijanis are considered one of the most hardworking peoples. This applies only to men; women, as a rule, do not work there at all.

We were left alone: ​​we washed ourselves, shared rooms, went to the store. From local products, we bought a bottle of pomegranate wine, cheese (be sure to try Azerbaijani cheeses!), and fruit.

Oriental sweets for tea

We started preparing dinner. An hour later Samir came to us with rice and chicken for Kurdish pilaf.

Azerbaijan has a rich ethnic composition. Our new friend is a Kurd.

This is interesting: In different regions of Azerbaijan, cheese is prepared according to different recipes. Here you can try the whole variety of Caucasian cheeses. Hard and like you're eating butter. My favorite was Motal - the most delicious and most expensive cheese in the country.

We persuaded Samir to cook pilaf next time. In the meantime, they sat him down at the table, put naval pasta in front of him, and poured him some Russian cognac. Samir squirmed, but drank. We asked him about the sights of Baku, about Azerbaijani traditions, about whether they still have patriarchy. The first evening in Baku was coming to an end. In the morning we had a big tour of the city, and it turns out that our new friend has a birthday tomorrow.

Icheri Sheher and other reasons to come to Baku

The morning was leisurely. From 9 o'clock everyone began to wake up, prepare breakfast, and prepare themselves to go out. Baku is a modern city with developed infrastructure. And since we took a sightseeing car tour yesterday, today we decided to go for a walk. Our house was 10 minutes from the metro.

Our friendly company is going to Icheri Sheher

Please note: d Traffic in the Baku metro is circular. Before the train arrives, a board lights up indicating which direction the train is traveling.

Icheri Sheher metro station. Very soon we will see the old city

We left the subway and almost immediately the wall began. Once upon a time, behind this wall there was the city itself, and even earlier - the entire state.

Historical reference: Icheri Sheher, or “fortress”, or “old city” of Baku. Here is the palace of the Shirvanshahs, here is the Maiden Tower, here Nikulin said “damn it.” A large fortress wall, behind which is located a whole city, or, as it is also called, the inner city.
The first mention of Icheri-Sheher dates back to the 5th century. Today, the Old Town is a unique historical ensemble, where tourists from all over the world come and where real residents live. The locals also call them serfs. Their total number is about 1300. And they have their own measures.

At first it seems that Icheri Sheher is very small, but in reality it turns out that even a whole day is not enough to explore it.

Icheri-Sheher Scheme

5 must-see attractions in Icheri Sheher

1.Maiden's Tower. 28 meters of a huge stone cylinder on a ledge of a coastal cliff. In the old days, the city ended here and the sea began. The purpose of the tower is unknown.

There are many legends about its construction. According to one of them, the Shah decided to marry his own daughter. Then the girl, in the hope of dissuading her father, asked to build his tower and wait for the completion of construction. The Shah complied with the request. Then the girl went upstairs and threw herself from there into the sea.

There are always crowds of tourists near the Maiden Tower, and entrance to it is paid - about 4 manats.

We didn’t go to the Maiden Tower: it’s a waste of money and the queue is too long.

2."Damn it." Many famous Soviet films were filmed in Icheri Sheher, among them “The Diamond Arm”. In the Old Town there is a cafe “Damn it,” and at the place where Yuri Nikulin said the legendary phrase, hundreds of tourists wipe their pants every day.

There is a sign attached to the place where the movie was filmed, so you won’t confuse it with anything else.

Local residents show photographs of film stills and offer to navigate through them.

3. Palace of the Shirvanshahs. The complex, which includes the Divan Khan, the tomb of the Shirvanshahs and the palace mosque, built from the 13th to the 16th centuries. The construction is associated with the transfer of the capital of the Shirvanshahs from Shemakha to Baku. Shirvan is a historical region in Transcaucasia from Derbent to the Kura River delta. Currently, it is part of the territory of Azerbaijan.

You can enter the territory of the palace, but we chose a different course - we went to the market.

Street trading - you don’t even need tables, all the goods are on carpets.

I remember the stories of Sinbad the Sailor, here they are - the colors of the east.

4. Shops and street trading in Icheri-Sheher. We got the impression that all 1,300 inhabitants of the fortress city were exclusively merchants. There are so many of them on the streets! They offer everything from oriental sweets to carpets. We liked one lamp, but it was very expensive, having decided that the Genie, who would grant three wishes, would probably not fly out of it, we put the lamp in place and began to try on national hats.

Papakha. What do you think of the new hairstyle?

5. Baths of Icheri Sheher. Oriental baths resemble oriental mosques - just as round and beautiful. No match for our black baths. Recessed into the ground, only the entrance halls are visible from the outside.

Can you really say that this is a bathhouse?

We liked Icheri Sheher, every street and every house there is a World Heritage Site: the streets are narrow, the people are friendly, the locals not only want to sell something on, but are also ready to talk for hours about their city for free. So you can save on a guide and without a twinge of conscience ask passers-by and merchants about their national heritage. Be sure to try oriental sweets at the market.

On the red carpet - this is actually the entrance to the carpet museum.

Beautiful panorama, on the left is the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum.

There are 6 embassies in Icheri Sheher.

Having walked several kilometers and worn out our legs, we sat down on a bench and watched. Opposite, men were playing street chess. This is generally accepted among Azerbaijanis; here on every side street you can meet men playing cards or backgammon at a table. And women stay at home.

On the streets of Baku you can meet groups of men playing chess, backgammon or cards.

Representatives of the fair sex walking along the streets were divided into three categories:

1. Completely naked are mostly young people. In tops with exposed navels and shorts that cut to the fifth point.
2. Moderately naked - these are the majority. Girls in knee-length dresses look like they are going to the theater.
3. Completely closed. Yes, you can still meet women in burqas on the streets of Baku.

Baku Sydney

Street sculptures Baku

Having rested a little and waited for our Azerbaijani friend Samir, we hit the road again. This time we walked past the Baku Boulevard, the flame towers, the Philharmonic (did you know that Muslim Magomayev was an Azerbaijani?), past the area where the Rally took place, past Torgovaya Street.

Baku is considered one of the most beautiful cities not only because here the East meets the West, but also because the historical center was built up around the same time. The city is an architectural ensemble; every building is worthy of praise!

We took the funicular up to Nagorno-Karabakh - the best observation deck with a view of the whole of Baku.

We walked along the Alley of Martyrs, or Alley of Glory in Russian. Completely tired. The day rolled smoothly towards evening. Samir offered us a ride, and - attention! - nine people and one driver got into a white Toyota and drove home.

Samir is a traffic cop, so we could afford it. He was the only traffic police officer with whom we managed to “make friends.” It is clear that after meeting with him we had no unpleasant situations on the road to Baku.

We started preparing dinner, some were getting ready, because Samir, with the permission of the adults, invited two young girls to the restaurant for his birthday. When he arrived again, we congratulated him by giving him a Russian souvenir - a bottle of vodka hidden in a matryoshka doll and left for Hollywood - one of the coolest clubs and restaurants in Baku.

In “Hollywood” everything is expensive and rich: golden toilets and sinks, a lot of red, luxuriously dressed and carefully made-up women. We rented a separate room with karaoke, and that’s where our knowledge of “Hollywood” ended.

In the restroom of one of the restaurants in Baku

Remember, I already said that Azerbaijanis like to sit in little rooms? This is the same as sitting in the kitchen in Russia. It’s just that in Baku guests are taken not to a house, but to a restaurant.

Interestingly, their prices for “sit in a restaurant” are not high. For 30 manats, which is about 1,200 rubles in our money, we are ready to close the room. And, what we didn’t know before, but this will come in handy, in Baku there is not much difference in the menu between luxury establishments and shacks. Unless the cost of tea will be different. In elite establishments, just drinking tea costs 30 manats.

Miami Beach on the Caspian Sea

The Caspian Sea is turquoise green

In Azerbaijan there is the Caspian Sea. It differs from Black in its characteristic turquoise-green color. The coolest beach in Baku is Miami Beach. That's where we went on the third day of our journey. By bus, because there are racers all around and because we drove around Baku a year in advance on the first day. In addition, public transport in Baku runs well in all directions.

We liked the beach. They say it is very expensive there during the season. But we were there at the end of May, when it was not the season: entry, sunbeds, and houses were still free.

The coolest beach in Baku Miami Beach

If you imagine a little, you can imagine that we are in Bali.

We spent the whole day on the beach, relaxing, sunbathing and running for beer.

This is the most delicious beer in Baku - be sure to try it.

In the evening, someone was packing their bags - in the morning we were leaving for Georgia, and someone else went on a night walk again. This time at karaoke: sing Emin, dance “jeirani” - a folk dance of Azerbaijan, drink pomegranate wine.

Time stop - I don’t want to leave Baku

Results of the trip

A few words as a summary about your vacation in Azerbaijan:

1. People friendly. The majority professes Islam, and according to Islam, helping for free is considered a good deed.
2. Money- Azerbaijani manat is equal to approximately 40 rubles. It is very profitable to buy fruits; they are sold there in gapiks, kopecks in our language, and usually cost less than 1 manat.
3. Entertainment- carousels, cinemas, and in Russian, theaters, excursions, cafes - there is everything!
4. Language- Azerbaijani. The percentage of Russian speakers is 50/50, decreasing with distance from the center. All schools study Russian, English and Azerbaijani languages.
5. Movement - very aggressive movement. It is more convenient to get to Baku by car; it would be good to go out of town or visit other large cities, but in Baku itself, if you are not a horseman and are not going for thrills, it is better to travel by public transport or taxi. The price for a taxi is from 2 manats, that is, from 80 rubles. The metro costs 30 gapiks, less than 20 rubles, the same amount for bus fare.

If you have not yet chosen where you will live and want to save money when booking, we recommend using the RoomGuru service. Firstly, it contains hotels, apartments and guest houses from many different booking systems, so you won’t miss out on a worthwhile option. Secondly, you can immediately compare prices for one place in different services and book where it is cheaper (this is not always Booking!).

The Heydar Aliyev Center immediately appeared on the list of the most amazing buildings of the 21st century. The building includes a convention center, museum, exhibition halls and administrative offices. There were practically no straight lines used in it. The wave-shaped main building seems to rush upward, while at the same time not losing its smooth connection with the ground. In 2014, this project was recognized as the best in the world and awarded the 2014 Design of the Year award.

Baku Crystal Hall

The concert hall for 25 thousand spectators was built in just 8 months. An artificial peninsula was even created in the bay for construction. Baku residents simply call the place “Eurovision”: in 2012, the country received the right to host this international competition and the Crystal Hall was built specifically for it. Now the hall is a concert venue for performances by A-list stars. At various times, concerts of Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, and Shakira took place there.

Airport named after Heydar Aliyev

For a long time, the Baku airport was content with one passenger terminal, which in the end could no longer cope with the increased passenger traffic. But in 2013, a new terminal was opened here, the top view of which is stylized as an airplane or a bird spreading its wings in flight. The state airline Azal is based in the new terminal, and arriving passengers are greeted by luxurious interiors that immediately immerse them in the atmosphere of oriental fairy tales.

White City

Once upon a time, this territory was the so-called Black City - an area of ​​industry and workers. Now the government has decided to build a fashionable (like everything else in Baku) White City district on this site. The seaside part of the new district will be built exclusively with skyscrapers, of which Baku residents are very proud in advance.

“Sjort pobieri.” Icheri Sheher Boulevard

This place is a cult place for all fans of Soviet cinema. This is where the famous scene from the film “The Diamond Arm” was filmed. Now all that remains of the old street is the door, near which the smugglers were guarding Mironov. At this point, everyone tries to stumble and be sure to have time to take a selfie. Expensive cars are now parked along the boulevard, and around the bend there begins a whole alley of fashionable shops and restaurants.

Flame Tower

A new symbol of the city and all of Azerbaijan. And the symbol must be noticeable. The new complex is the tallest buildings in the country. Flame Towers lighting has been recognized as the best in the world. The buildings are completely covered with LED screens, onto which burning flames are broadcast, visible from the farthest points of the city. Visually, the effect of gigantic torches is created, which emphasizes the main idea of ​​the structure, reflected in the name - “Fire Towers”.

Khazar Islands

The new wonder of the world is still under construction, but it is impossible not to mention it. Khazar Islands is an artificial archipelago of 78 islands in the Caspian Sea with a total length of 10 km. More than $100 billion will be spent on construction. According to the plan, the new city will be populated by 2016, and by 2025 its population will be 1 million people (1/9 of the total population of the country).

Jumerah Bilgah Beach Hotel

Jumerah Bilgah Beach Hotel

The hotel itself can be considered another miracle. Jumeirah Bilgah Beach became the first international five-star resort in Baku. The structure and design of the resort were developed by Azerbaijani architect Nazim Valiev. The 18-storey building rises directly on the coast of the Caspian Sea. Locals come here simply to breathe iodized air, which helps with heart disease. In the lobby, guests are greeted by a 58-meter chandelier consisting of 72 thousand LED lamps. It permeates the hotel building from the first floor to the roof. This is a must see.

Guests and hotel guests can admire not only the chandelier and rooms with sea views. Jumeirah Bilgah Beach has nine restaurants and bars, including a nightclub, Talise Spa, fitness center and more. The hotel's cuisine is special: two chefs: a French and an Azerbaijani. If you want to try traditional cuisine, then this is the place for you. And, of course, the hotel is an iconic vacation spot for the elite: there are Oscar-style weddings, summit meetings, and dinners with the participation of presidents and billionaires. In general, everything a curious person could want.

The good thing about a traveler's life is that you don't know what to expect from the coming day and new place. I didn’t expect much from Azerbaijan; it became the first country on my trip to the countries of Transcaucasia. And herein lies another secret of the wise universe. Don't expect much and you will be rewarded. The country has exceeded all my most optimistic expectations. I absolutely didn’t want to leave, because how to leave a country where people treat you with incredible respect and participation, always try to help, creating a cozy home environment along the way, where food hits all taste buds with an orgasmic wave at once, where mountains are adjacent to the sea, and forests with cities.

Cosmic landscapes, mud volcanoes, juicy fruits and vegetables, eclectic, melting fat tail, carved caravanserais, perky songs - this is what accompanied me on this wonderful trip. And, of course, I can’t help but mention the magical event, because where else but in an oriental fairy tale can miracles happen? In a small Azerbaijani village, where, due to the lack of attractions, I learned about the local culture at the market, absolutely unexpectedly we came face to face with Gerard Depardieu himself, and I, remembering my school French lessons, explained to him on my fingers what I was doing in this not very popular among tourists place. Gerard starred in a film about the travels of Alexandre Dumas Sr. in the East (and Dumas knew a lot about interesting places).

Azerbaijan is a country whose emotions I could measure in hours of laughter or tons of positivity.

So, if you value the warmth of human hearts more than stars in a hotel, if nature is closer to you than shopping centers, if you are open to new experiences and consider travel as an adventure, if you adore emotional outbursts and laughter, then Azerbaijan is for you.

Visa and border crossing

Russian citizens can enter Azerbaijan without a visa with a valid passport and stay in the country up to 90 days. If for some reason you want to stay in the country longer than the allowed three months, then the visa issue can be resolved at the Embassy of Azerbaijan in Moscow, at the address: Leontyevsky Lane, 16.

What to pay attention to:

Import and export rules

How to get there

You can get to Azerbaijan by land, by water and by air, depending on the complexity of your route and the starting point of your trip.

By plane

The easiest and fastest way to get to Azerbaijan is by plane.

To Baku from Moscow

The flight from the capital of the Russian Federation to Baku lasts about 3 hours, here are the airlines that fly on this route:

• from Domodedovo ( 216 USD- round trip price);
• Ural Airlines from Domodedovo ( 180 USD);
• Pegas fly from Zhukovsky airport ( 180 USD);
• Azerbaijan Airlines from Vnukovo ( 190 USD);
• Utair from Vnukovo ( 160 USD);
• AEROFLOT from Sheremetyevo ( 190 USD).

To Baku from St. Petersburg:

To Baku from other Russian cities:

• from Novosibirsk The airline's planes fly to Baku on Sundays and Wednesdays. Travel time - 4.5 hours, ticket price - 340 USD.
• from Kazan Azerbaijan Airlines planes fly to Baku on Sundays and return on Mondays. Travel time - 2.5 hours, round trip ticket price - 210 USD.
• Azerbaijan Airlines also operates flights to Baku from Ekaterinburg on Thursdays and Sundays. Travel time - 3 hours, ticket price - 310 USD. Uralair airline flies on the same route on the same days. The flight lasts 3 hours and costs 300 USD.
• from Mineralnye Vody to Baku Heydar Aliyev Airport, a flight on an Azerbaijan Airlines plane lasts only 1.5 hours and is carried out on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays ( 160 USD).

All current prices for different airlines can be found on the websites of the carriers themselves or, for example,.

Airports of Azerbaijan

There are 6 international airports in the country:

The second most important airport in Azerbaijan Ganja accepts flights from Moscow on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays (4 hours, 215 USD).

By train

A train in the post-Soviet space is already an adventure, so if you have time to spare and you are inclined to leisurely contemplate the landscapes outside the window, read books while listening to the sound of wheels or savor tea in the famous cut glasses in a metal cup holder, then do not deny yourself pleasure and take a few days out of your own life for the road from Moscow to Baku.

From Moscow to Baku

Train no. 55 departs from Kursk station to Baku on Saturdays. Travel time is 2 days and 4 hours, and ticket prices range from 100 USD in a reserved seat carriage until 140 USD in the compartment If you want luxury, then buy a ticket for the SV carriage: 260 USD and a comfortable trip is guaranteed to you!

From St. Petersburg to Baku

If you are traveling from St. Petersburg and dream of conquering Azerbaijan by rail, then you can get to Moscow in any convenient way and start realizing your dream from there. How and what to get from the northern capital to Moscow is interesting and detailed here.

How to get from the station to the center of Baku

The Baku railway station is conveniently located in the center of the capital, so if you choose to travel by train rather than by plane, then your acquaintance with Azerbaijan will begin in the very heart of this beautiful city.

By bus

From Moscow

You can get from Moscow to Baku by bus, the average price of a one-way ticket is about 60 USD. But keep in mind that most carriers are private and you can find out information at bus stations. The bus travels a distance of 2,200 kilometers in 31 hours.

You can find out more information at the South Gate bus station or at the Sadovod market, where international buses and minibuses depart from. But be prepared for the fact that you will be traveling with migrants who move only in this way from the capital of Russia to their homeland in Azerbaijan.

Due to the difficulties with an accurate schedule and purchasing tickets in advance, as well as the length of the journey, those who like to travel by land are better off considering the good old train.

From other cities of Russia

From some Russian cities, for example, Kazan, Samara, Naberezhnye Chelny, Krasnodar, Rostov, Nizhny Novgorod, buses go to the Azerbaijani capital. However, it is unlikely that you will be able to find information on flights in online booking systems, so you should contact the bus station in your city directly for information.

Baku bus station

Buses arrive at the central bus station in Baku, from which you can reach the city center in 20 minutes by bus and metro or in 10–15 minutes by taxi. I will talk more about this type of transport below in the section “Moving Around the Country”.

By car

For those who like adventurous actions, there is an option - to get to Baku by car.

From Moscow to Baku

The travel distance will be approx. 2,300 km. The most convenient route passes through Makhachkala.

Gasoline costs will be 150–200 USD, and the travel time is unlikely to be less 28 hours. Time at the border is unpredictable; you can get through in a couple of hours, or you can get stuck for half a day. This is due to both objective factors (the number of cars) and subjective ones (the mood and performance of state border employees).

As in almost the entire post-Soviet space, crossing borders is accompanied by extortions, especially mentioned by motorists when recalling the territory of the Republic of Dagestan. They can ask for a bribe for something, or they can simply “as a gift for an employee.” You can refuse, but then, at best, the car may be sent for additional inspection, and at worst, they may find something you didn’t put there.

Therefore, the route by car is for the most daring.

From Makhachkala to Baku

As an alternative, minibuses and buses run from Makhachkala, in which crossing the border is more clear and simple. Travel time from Makhachkala to Baku - about 5 o'clock.

From St. Petersburg to Baku

If you decide to travel from St. Petersburg, then add 800 kilometers and 8–10 hours of travel to the total distance.

Tourist regions

Let's talk about where a traveler in Azerbaijan should go first.

On the map I showed why the regions of the country will be interesting, and then I will tell you about this in more detail.

Absheronsky district

The main region of the country, since this is where the capital of Azerbaijan is located - a modern, futuristic, vibrant, historical, incredible metropolis and cultural stronghold of the country.

I find it difficult to single out any one specificity in the region; probably, like Baku, the region is too eclectic.

Here on the coast of the Caspian Sea extend sandy beaches , operating seasonally, the most famous of which are Mardakan and Shikhovo.

Shikhovo is an area of ​​more representative resorts, where in addition to hotels, tourists are offered a full range of water activities, water parks and an equipped beach area. The best resorts: Aqua Park Shikhov and Crescent Beach.

The Mardakan area is a little more down-to-earth, although it also has everything you need for a beach holiday. Popular resorts: Khazar Golden Beach and Fras Beach.

Absheronsky district is famous mud volcanoes , the most famous of which are located in Martian Gobustan. I keep remembering with what concentration I stood in the middle of the desert near the mud pool, waiting for the new “bully”.

Except mud splashes Gobustan I remember the cosmically deserted landscape. It was as if I had visited another planet. If you're lucky, you might stumble upon rock paintings and try to imagine what the inhabitants of the region looked like thousands of years ago.

Right here on the Absheron Peninsula there is the same name reserve .

Connoisseurs of antiquity will be interested Mardakan guard fortresses , who have seen a lot in their lifetime. As the enemy approached, oil was set on fire in the tower, thereby notifying residents of the danger.

35 kilometers from Baku is Ateshgah fire temple . As you know, the region is rich in mineral deposits, and natural gas came to the surface here in ancient times. And since in that era not all phenomena could be explained by facts, the area quickly became famous and acquired a religious interpretation.

Guba-Khachmaz district

The region is located in the northeast of the country and is the closest mountainous region to the capital.

What I remember most here is the town of Guba. On the one hand, there is nothing remarkable here except for the curious Krasnaya Sloboda : an area originally called the “Jewish Settlement”, where Jews still live. The place is considered the only compact region inhabited by Mountain Jews throughout the entire former USSR.

On the other hand, despite the fact that Sloboda is practically the only attraction of Guba, it is here that you can see real Azerbaijani life: meet real people and see the Caucasian village routine in all its beauty.

But the real treasure of the region can be safely called located high in the mountains Khinalig village . You can get there by special car and be amazed at how the small Khinalig people (about 3,000 people in the world) were able to preserve their language and their customs.

In addition to people with big bright eyes, the mountain landscape itself is striking, into which old men in jackets and geese in love organically fit in.

After visiting the remote Khinalig village, it will certainly be pleasant to soak up the beach resort Nabran , where there is the sea, forests, and nightlife.

Ganjabasar district

This is a region for nature lovers, of which I consider myself. Of course, Baku is also interesting, but mountain lakes, wild rivers, life-giving air, meadows and snow-capped peaks are dearer to my heart.

At an altitude of 1,500 meters above sea level there are resort areas of Goygol and Adjikend , where people come to treat their respiratory system and just relax.

Blue Lake Goygol appeared here more than 1,000 years ago and since then has delighted the eyes of local residents and visiting travelers.

Not far from Ganja is Khanlar town , famous for the production of delicious wines and cognacs. And before tasting, I recommend wandering around the surrounding area with beautiful forests, parks and lakes.

Astara district of Lankaran

This area surprises with a combination of very different natural resources. It has access to the sea, which is now atmospherically overgrown with reeds.

The region of the mouth of the Kura River is a favorite place for migrating birds and an oasis of joy for the amateur ornithologist. Well, most importantly, there are two significant natural parks in the region: Hyrkan National Park And Gizilagach reserve .

Hyrkan National Park, just 5 hours drive from Baku, is a place where there are no bars, no shopping malls, no discos, but only forest. Beautiful and virgin forest. It’s good not only for guests, but also for the indigenous inhabitants - plants and animals.

Nature lovers organize a real photo hunt for animals, the apotheosis of which can be the happiness of seeing deer swimming in a mountain lake at dawn.

The Gizilagach reserve is a paradise for ornithologists; almost all species of birds that exist in Azerbaijan are represented here.

Nakhichevan region

This is an isolated region of Azerbaijan. Due to the unrecognized Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, which cuts Azerbaijan into two parts, the route to the region is difficult and is only possible by air.

Still, it's interesting here. Beautiful landscapes, ancient villages in which little has changed over the last hundred years, hospitable people, rock paintings, the old fortress of Yezdagerd, the sacred Mount Gamigaya - this is what awaits those who dare to fly over the disputed territory and end up in an enclave on the other side of the country.

Sheki-Zagatala region

The region not only has a wealth of natural beauty and amazing landscapes, but also the most vibrant city in Azerbaijan Sheki .

In the very center of Sheki there is a magnificent ancient caravanserai, converted into a very affordable hotel. Living there, you can’t help but feel a slight taste of antiquity in every detail. By the way, the word “shed” is translated as “palace”, but not at all as we thought.

Sheki is a magical city, especially in the evening sunset light. I strongly recommend not to miss it!

Shirvan district

Mountain climbing, easy walks, visiting waterfalls - there is everything for lovers of active recreation.

Shirvan Valley incredibly picturesque. I give you my personal recipe for a reboot: a leisurely walk through the most beautiful Shirvan valleys with rivers, peaks, meadows and giant boulders that have found their eternal shelter here.

Top cities

Baku

A city of unimaginable contrasts, where incredible futuristic buildings and cozy quarters of Old Baku coexist hand in hand.

While walking, the contrast is striking. Now I’ve wandered into the old entrance, where the forever names of former residents have not yet been erased on the mailboxes, and after a few steps I find myself in a city of skyscrapers, reminding me that there is oil here.

The beautiful embankment is especially beautiful in the evening, when the high-rise buildings are painted in the colors of the Azerbaijani flag, and the water breaks with a pleasant noise on the well-worn stones.

According to my observations, the embankment looks like during the day and like in the evening.

The city has a lot of interesting sculptures, successfully integrated into its architecture.

A girl talking on the phone, a stack of books, a sad violinist - these statues seem as real as shoe shiners, reminding us that cleanliness is held in special esteem in the Caucasus.

Surprisingly, silk carpets in old shops, a monument to tea, mosques, birdhouses and cats of all kinds coexist together quite organically. Probably one of the few cities I have visited that suits eclecticism so well.

It’s worth setting aside a few days to get to know the city so that you can take your time, feel free to get lost in the narrow streets of the Old Town, look at the doors made in the shape of backgammon and other cute details, and enjoy gastronomic tourism to the fullest.

And, of course, don’t forget to take a memorable “damn it” shot on Kichik-Gala Street near the very house where the episode of the film “The Diamond Arm” was filmed.

Sheki

Unlike Baku, this city is small, but very atmospheric: terracotta houses with carved balconies surrounded by picturesque green mountains, cars from the 80s and the warm colors of the setting sun couldn’t help but please me.

The most famous landmark of the city is the Palace of Sheki Khans.
From here you can travel in half a day to Kish, a small village with an Albanian church.

A ride on a minibus in Azerbaijan is already an adventure. All the passengers got to know me, and during these 40 minutes on the way, everyone shared their story. Without a doubt, the most valuable thing on the road is the people we meet.

They are the ones who form impressions of the country; only they can make a trip on a broken minibus unforgettable, or they can ruin the experience of a hotel with stars.

And I remind you that in Sheki you should only stay in the caravanserai - the oldest and most beautiful hotel in the city!

Lip

This is the village where I found myself on the way to the village of Khinalig. A place with a single hotel, old dilapidated baths and remnants of former luxury in the form of a grand staircase in the middle of an empty park. Well, this is what real local life looks like far from oil money.

However, I felt great here. Because the older residents of the city speak Russian well, because they treat you with respect, because they strive to feed you.

The part of the city behind the bridge is called Krasnaya Sloboda. If you cross the bridge and walk along this very Sloboda, it will seem that you have been transported to happiness, because on every corner there is no less than a real “Palace of Happiness”. However, the truth turned out to be more prosaic.

Registry offices are called houses of happiness here.

The history of the settlement is interesting. Mountain Jews live here, and the settlement itself is divided into quarters with synagogue centers. Initially, representatives of this rare nation spoke their own language, reminiscent of Farsi, but now it is not difficult to meet bilingual Jews who understand and speak Azerbaijani, and trilingual residents who speak excellent Russian, too.

Also in Guba, as in any place where there are few attractions, or rather, in places that in themselves are one big attraction, you cannot miss the bazaar. I remember I bought figs, and they gave me a kilogram of pears as a gift, and this is not uncommon here!

In my case, the market was marked by an event that, according to my estimates, could not have happened in Guba. Anywhere, but not there. While tasting grapes at the market, I noticed some movement, and a local boy said: “Depardieu is coming now.” “Of course, of course,” I thought skeptically. But he really came and was no less surprised than we were to see fair-haired girls at the bazaar in Guba. The conversation was brief but memorable.

This is the town of Guba - a city of surprises and unexpected meetings.

Minibuses depart from the Baku bus station to Guba every half hour for 2–3 USD, travel time is 3 hours.

Nakhchivan

This is an enclave city, so if you decide to include it in your itinerary, you will have to fly from Baku with Azerbaijan Airlines for 40 minutes and in 40 USD(tickets for this flight cannot be purchased online, but only at the ticket office). The city itself is located on the border with Iran, so residents of the capital often take a detour to Nakhchivan: by car through Iran. If you have a visa, this journey can be completed in 10–12 hours.

There are many ancient monuments in the city, and if you get here, be sure to visit: the 11th-century Kuseyir mausoleum, the Gyaur-Kala fortress, the Noah mausoleum, the caravanserai in Julfa and the Momine Khatun mausoleum. And, probably, the most incredible structure of the city is the Khudaferin bridges over the Araks River.

It is interesting to look at the monument to Bebek, the Azerbaijani-Iranian counterpart of Stepan Razin, who became famous for his unsuccessful uprising against the Iranian caliphate.

Ganja

It is the second largest city of Azerbaijan, formerly known as “Kirovobad”. Various national characteristics were embodied in the planning of the urban structure. Ethnic Germans, who left the city only in the 90s, played a significant role in the design and creation of houses and parks.

Naturally, the city also has buildings that have survived to this day from the Soviet era. This eclectic mix is ​​very typical of Azerbaijan.

In Ganja, I was amazed by the plane trees - 500 slender green trees that decorate the city and are considered its symbol. The oldest tree named Dul-Dul is 1,500 years old.

Ganja is like an open-air museum: if you just wander through its streets and districts, you will definitely come across something interesting. Quite by accident, I came across a strange building decorated with bottles, and the locals immediately told me that the building was called the “bottle house.”

The building was built by a man who lost his son in the war, and it was in memory of him that he decorated the building with portraits of the hero, as well as stones and 50,000 glass bottles brought from different parts of the USSR. Sad and touching story.

Mingachevir

An ancient and interesting city on the banks of the Kura River. There are architectural monuments, historical evidence, parks, the ancient settlement of Sudagylan and a reservoir, which locals call the Mingachevir Sea. Of course: there’s even fish here! And the reservoir itself is used by artists for inspiration.

For me, the most pleasant place was the cozy embankment with shady alleys and an almost sea panorama.

Top attractions

1. Khinalig (Xınalıq)
   A small village far in the mountains could be one of thousands of similar villages, but still it is special. A small nation lives here, the Khinalig people, who have preserved their unique language.
   There are many amazing things in Khinalig, children have huge eyes, cows have long eyelashes, and life here has its own, measured...
   Children blow bubbles, women do laundry, men in identical suits slowly walk around the village. And it’s surprising that, despite such a remote location, there has been Internet here for 7 years.
   
2. "Qobustan" - Azerbaijani "space"
   Gobustan National Park is located 30 kilometers from Baku. And it is three times surprising that, having covered such a short distance from cosmopolitan Baku, you find yourself in another world. On another planet. In a parallel universe.
   The national park is a large desert area scattered with petroglyphs dating back about 5,000 years. To be honest, I’m not a big fan of petroglyphs, but the shades of the red-brown stones amazed me.
   There are also famous mud volcanoes here. There are mountains around, stones of strange colors and cracked earth. In the distance, the sun is shining over the mountains and rocks, there are no people.
   An unusual landscape, like in “The Secret of the Third Planet”. Volcanoes make strange sounds. So you sit on the ground, waiting for a splash, and all around you: gurgle, gurgle, gurgle. Curious.
   For an excursion from Baku, travel agencies charge about 150 USD for the whole day. I went on my own by public transport: buses No. 120, then No. 195 will take you to a place on the highway where taxi drivers stand and offer a ride around the park. The price for such a trip is 15–20 USD.
3. Maiden Tower in Baku (Qız Qalası)
   Walking around Baku, it is impossible to miss this massive structure in the Old City. Scientists are still arguing about the purpose of the tower and its age, but this name interested me. A local resident, elderly Tural, told me a legend about how the tower appeared. And, frankly, legends are much more interesting than boring facts.
   The word “maiden” is used here in the meaning of “impregnable, uncaptured”, because at one time the tower was part of the defensive structures of the Baku fortress. The legend says: the local Shah fell in love with his daughter and forced her to marry. She, naturally, resisted and, in order to somehow cool the ardor of her lustful father, asked him to build a tower, in the hope that during the construction of the tall structure her father would change his mind. But the Shah stood his ground, then the beauty climbed the tower and threw herself into the sea.
   I climbed the tower (for 1.5 USD) and enjoy the views of the Old Town, looking at authentic balconies and grieving over the fate of the unfortunate girl.
4. Palace of Sheki Khans (Şəki xan sarayı)
   Sheki is a pleasant city in itself, but the Palace of the Khans is a real treasure. Having crossed the threshold of the ancient palace, it was as if I had entered a chest of jewels (entrance - 1.5 USD). Still, imagine stained glass windows made of 14,000 multi-colored pieces of Venetian glass.
   The palace is more of a living quarters than a museum, and this is especially interesting. While walking among the interior items of the women's and men's rooms, the imagination involuntarily draws pictures from the past, where a richly dressed khan eats a handful of grapes on a sun-drenched terrace.
   Guests are greeted by two spreading plane trees, sycamore trees that provide good shelter from the midday heat. There are very interesting excursions in the palace ( 3 USD).
5. State Flag Square in Baku (Dövlət Bayrağı Meydanı)
   “Area” is a conditional name; in fact, the territory of the place is 60 hectares.
   The height of the flag placed here is more than 160 meters, and the dimensions of the banner itself are 35 by 79 meters.
   It is here, when the sea wind flutters a giant flag, that the respectful attitude of Azerbaijanis towards their country and its main symbol is very felt. It's worth learning.
   Nearby there is a Ferris wheel, several galleries, a beautiful embankment with sculptures, a cozy promenade, cafes, restaurants and even a small one where you can ride along the milk rivers in your own gondola. And from all these places you can see the flag!
   
6. Goygol lake (Göygöl)
   Azerbaijan is associated more with oil than with beach holidays. But nevertheless, in addition to the coast of the Caspian Sea, you can also swim here in fresh water bodies. Lake Goygol is located 45 kilometers from Ganja, quite close to the border with the unrecognized Republic of Nagorno-Karabakh.
   The lake has clear water that you can drink, and since you can drink it, the fish are comfortable here. The lake, surrounded by beautiful places, is home to trout.
   You won’t be able to take a dip in the lake; approaching the water is prohibited; moreover, the water temperature in the hottest time does not rise above +17 °C. I wouldn’t call this a problem, because in good weather here, in the green forests, it’s great to walk around and breathe clean air.
7. Absheron National Park (Absheron Milli Parkı)
   An excellent natural park just an hour's drive from Baku. The 700 hectare reserve is located in a picturesque location on the Absheron Peninsula. Here, if you're lucky, you can see many species of birds, animals and plants. And in the waters of the Caspian Sea, starting in September, you can meet a sea snake or even a Caspian fur seal.
   Entrance to the park costs approx. 1 USD, you can get there by taxi from Baku (about 40 USD).
   Don't forget a cap and sunscreen, the sun can be very hot. In the park it is possible to hire a guide, but I preferred to walk on my own. The place is conducive to thinking about the eternal and the everyday. Tickets can be purchased.
8. Beshbarmaq
   The name is surprisingly similar to the popular oriental dish beshbarmak, but in meaning it is very far from it. Beshbarmag is a mountain 40 kilometers from Baku.
   In fact, the answer is simple: beshbarmak translated means “5 fingers” - a meat dish is eaten in this way, and the mountain resembles fingers in its shape.
   The mountain is not just beautiful, it can fulfill the wishes, but only of those who spare no effort and climb it. There are known cases when climbing a mountain helped those suffering to recover from illnesses, and those dreaming of children to become parents. The views from the mountain are magnificent, and water drips from the source, healing any ailment.
   According to legend, the immortal sage Khizr prayed here, dreaming of learning the secrets of existence. And to this day, people go and go to the mountain to feel their involvement with higher powers, to ask for a wish to be fulfilled or to part with their own sins.
9. Icheri Sheher (İçəri şəhər)
   This is the Old City of Baku, bounded by fortress walls. You feel strange here, because being in a place with such a pronounced historical and cultural flavor, reminders of modernity constantly catch your eye.
   Either a huge flag flutters in the distance, or skyscrapers divide the horizon into several parts. But in Icheri Sheher you need to concentrate on antiquity.
   There is no need to plan a route, you just need to wander through the narrow streets with balconies, look into the courtyards, greet people, idly admire ancient souvenirs, and playfully ask the price of carpets.
   Everything is interesting here, and I really liked the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, where I had to pay for the entrance 1 USD, and the market square, which is 6 meters below ground level.
   Until now, the Kasum-bek bathhouse, ancient mosques, and the Maiden Tower stir the soul and bring back memories of the amazing atmosphere of the Old City.
10. Crafts Village Lahıc
    Lahij is a small but very interesting village near the city of Ismailly. If in the city of Ismailly itself the only entertainment for tourists is a cafe with delicious food and the beautiful name “Dostluk” (friendship), then in Lahij there is something to see.
    This is probably one of the most famous eastern centers of crafts. Here you can watch how goods from copper and leather are made in numerous workshops, how carpets are woven, traditional oriental ornaments are applied, and even weapons are made by the hands of masters of their craft.
    The secrets of the craft were passed down from generation to generation and, judging by the works, they were perfectly preserved. As, indeed, is the city’s sewer system, which, according to the stories of a local old woman, is 1,000 years old! You can get to Lahij from Ismailly in 1 USD and 50 minutes. There are minibuses from Baku to Ismailly, you will have to pay for the 5 hour journey 3–4 USD.

Weather

Azerbaijan is interesting at any time, but, of course, the best time to visit is from spring to autumn.

Summer

This time of year is for those who love the heat and want to include a beach holiday in their travel program. During the day, the air temperature in Baku can reach +30 °C. And sea water warms up to +25–26 °C.

Heat and drought can be hard to bear, especially if you enjoy long walks and hikes. Therefore, summer is here for the persistent.

Spring

Great time for nature lovers. During this season it is not hot here, the flowering time is beginning, and your stay will be comfortable. The temperature in April-May reaches +20–25 °C, but we must remember that the higher you go in the mountains, the cooler it gets.

The swimming season begins in mid-June, until this time the sea can only be enjoyed visually.

Autumn

This period of the year is suitable for people like me, for those who like to combine a hundred in one. In autumn it is still warm, you can swim, and, depending on the month, you can catch the harvest of fruits and vegetables.

In Baku in autumn it is about +25 °C, the water in the Caspian Sea is about +22 °C, which is quite suitable for swimming.

Azerbaijan is a very sunny country, but in autumn and spring it can rain, they paint the natural landscapes and urban landscapes in completely different colors, and this is wonderful. But they can also make it difficult to visit attractions.

For example, in October it rained in Ismailly, and it was difficult to get to the artisan Lahij due to the erosion of the road, which the locals, in their own way, playfully called “mountain drainage.”

Winter

In winter it can snow in Baku and there are quite a few tourists at this time. This kind of weather makes a walk along the embankment and especially the Old Town incredibly atmospheric.

You don’t have to expect any particularly cold weather; in winter the thermometer rarely drops below -2 °C.

Nature has no bad weather, so choose a convenient time and go explore beautiful Azerbaijan!

Moving around the country

Traveling around Azerbaijan is quite easy, especially for us who speak Russian. You can take a plane, train, bus, minibus or even a taxi.

By taxi

Taxi service is developed in Baku. You can use the international Uber system, you can order a taxi through apps, then the price will be fixed, or you can catch private taxi drivers on the street, then the cost of the trip can be absolutely anything, and besides, the street bomber may simply not want to go where you need to go.

A couple of years ago, London cabs began operating in Baku and have taken root well in the city. People, however, often call them “eggplant” because of their characteristic color, but they drive strictly according to the meter.

Probably, the funny song about the “Lada Sedan Eggplant” is dedicated to this vehicle.

Intercity taxi rides are possible, and their price directly depends on your ability to bargain.

By plane

An airplane is a convenient way to travel around the country and, I must say, quite affordable. Azerbaijan Lines Airlines operates regular flights to Ganja, Gabala and Nakhichevan:

• planes from Baku to Ganja fly on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays (1 hour on the way and 31 USD).
• planes to Gabala fly from Baku on Fridays and Sundays (an hour's journey and 28 USD).
• there are also flights to Nakhchivan, but they can only be purchased at the ticket office (40 minutes and 40 USD).

By bus

Historically, the most popular transport in the post-Soviet space is land transport. Many minibuses and buses travel to all corners of the country.

Here are the most popular routes that depart from the main bus station in Baku:

• Baku - Gabala (5.5 hours, 5 USD);
• Baku - Guba (3.5 hours, 3 USD);
• Baku - Ganja (7 hours, 4 USD);
• Baku - Ismayilli (5.5 hours, 3–4 USD);
• Baku - Lankaran (6.5 hours, 3 USD);
• Baku - Sheki (7 hours, 4 USD).

The bus station is located at the metro station "January 20th" , from where you need to travel a couple of stops on a city bus.

By train

The train is a great alternative to the bus. In almost all countries of the former USSR, where there is such an option, I choose the railway. Firstly, the train is much safer than buses and minibuses with daring and impetuous drivers. Secondly, trains arrive on schedule, and thirdly, you can enjoy the view from the window in a comfortable horizontal position.

Azerbaijan Railways offer routes to most places that may interest a traveler. Ticket prices are quite low, and therefore they are sold out quite quickly.

• Mingachevir,
• Zagatala,
• Shirvan,
• Astara,
• Balaken.

• Hertz;
• Aznur (there is a counter at Baku airport);
• Nascar rent;
• Karavan;
• Cermington.

Rent price:

• mini car - 10–15 USD per day;
• car "standard" - approx. 15–35 USD per day, depending on the total number of days (on weekends the rate doubles);
• SUV - 40–60 USD.

Many companies require a security deposit of 180–200 USD for a passenger car and 250 USD for an SUV.

The requirements for the tenant are easy to meet: you must have more than 2 years of experience, an international license and a credit card or cash for security deposit.

A liter of quality gasoline in Azerbaijan costs 0.7 USD.

Connection

In Azerbaijan, a foreigner can easily purchase a SIM card with the Internet; to do this, they must present a foreign passport. The peculiarity of the region is that the cost of the SIM card and package often depends on the “beauty” of the number.

Some cards may cost 10 USD, if the number is easy to remember and consists of repeating numbers. If this point is not important for you, then for 2–4 USD you can easily connect to the mobile network.

There are three operators in Azerbaijan: Azercel, Baksel and Nar-Azerfon. Their prices for services are approximately the same, but local residents said that Azersel’s connection is a little better.

I used the tariff Genc Ol: 2 GB of traffic, 200 minutes of on-net calls and 200 SMS cost me 3 USD (5 AZN).

Common in hotels and restaurants WiFi, so you will always be in touch. Even in the remote village of Khinalig, people have known what the Internet is for many years and are actively using it.

Language and communication

The Azerbaijani language is spoken in Azerbaijan. Now the written language is based on the Latin alphabet, but we cannot read some letters even if we try. However, there is some good news. Almost all the capital's youth speak English and Russian, and people of the older generation speak Russian almost at our level.

There are also funny incidents, for example, in the distant village of Khinalig, where, as I already said, it has its own language, one stern man pointed at his wife with a question:

- How old do you think he is?
-To whom "him?
-To him, my wife.

Another nuance is the translator’s false friends; on the very first day I was confused by the “sexy” inscription found on many signs.

“Sexy ceramics”, “sexy motors”, “sexy halva”. Luckily, "sexy" is not what you and I thought, "sexy" means "shop"!

The phrase “1,001 little things” sounds a little differently here.

As elsewhere, if people want to understand each other, they will understand. The main thing is to be open and human, then it will be intuitively clear that “liquid lamb” is “soup with meat”, and that it is better to refuse the offer of hot young men to “be friends” in the evening, just in case.

1. The most important word among eastern peoples is “friend” ( dost). Use it as often as possible, as well as its derivatives dostluk, which means "friendship".
2. Salam- "Good afternoon", halalik- "Goodbye".
3. Word " azadlig" - "freedom" is found very often: freedom avenue, freedom street, freedom radio and so on.
4. Chokh sagol- "Thank you".
5. Menim khoshuma galir...- "I like…".
6. Pschik- “cat”.
7. Bahadir- "very expensive".
8. Lezat- “pleasure”, for example, cutlet lezet- “The cutlets are just a blast.”
9. Menim adyn… - "My name is...".
10. Duddles- "tasty".

Treat people well, try to say at least a few words in their language, and the result will surprise you, and the trip will be special and very personal!

Features of mentality

Azerbaijanis are very nice people. Personally, I remember most of all two of their features: incredible hospitality And respect for elders. As one respectable old man in Baku told me, his son, who turned 50 this year, still does not smoke in his presence.

Elderly people will always be helped; It is impossible to imagine an old father or mother who will be sent to a nursing home.

It is curious that in many Azerbaijani families, parents still recommend a partner for marriage to their daughter and son. And many people do follow this advice, but not always out of respect for their parents, and sometimes because they prefer to take the path of least resistance. Nevertheless, there is always a choice, especially in cosmopolitan Baku, and if a girl wants to make a career and not get married at 25, then she will do it, although not without pressure from the outside.

Relationships with girls are a sore subject for young Azerbaijanis: dating for a long time without marriage is not encouraged, civil marriage is very rare and is condemned. As a tourist I met from France told me, one day they went to a club to dance, thinking that like in any European club they could have fun and meet girls, and were very surprised that only men were dancing in the club. “Why do you come here?” - the guys asked in bewilderment. “Dance,” was the answer.

But do not forget that Azerbaijan is a Muslim country, and the men here are “hot”, so if you are a girl, then avoid very revealing clothes and inappropriate flirtatiousness.

In general, the attitude towards girls is respectful, but since the world is Eastern, even in restaurants we were offered a separate room, which is called an “office” here. Not because it’s dangerous, but to make it more comfortable.

I have the best memories from the people of Azerbaijan, and especially about their amazing tact, when, unlike annoying merchants, as often shown in movies, people respectfully and with an open heart strive to help, but if you show that everything is fine and help no need, no one will pester you, and you will be left in peace.

Food and drink

Azerbaijan is a country that combines historical, natural and gastronomic tourism. I haven’t seen such an abundance of delicious food for a long time: a variety of appetizers, pickles, meat and fish delicacies, soups, sweets and fruit and vegetable dishes.

Beverages

As in any oriental cuisine, drinks are popular here from fermented milk products.

By the way, the locals advise eating a lot of fried fat tail during heavy libations, since not only is it tasty, it also coats the stomach and you don’t feel intoxicated.

And, of course, without tea Not a single meal is left out.

Meal Tradition

You can have an equally tasty and satisfying lunch or dinner in expensive restaurants and small eateries.

I was amazed by the breakfast. Usually the morning meal involves something light and rather small, but here on the table at such an early hour there are feta cheese, fresh bread, thick jam, homemade cream, eggs and even cabbage rolls!

If you are lucky enough to be invited as a guest, the delicious dishes will be generously flavored with incredible Azerbaijani hospitality.

5 dishes worth trying

Shopping

Azerbaijan is a very original country, which means that in pursuit of souvenirs you can stumble upon very interesting things here. Of course, Baku has modern shopping centers and giant malls, but, as elsewhere in the East, the real treasures lurk in the shadows of narrow streets: in workshops, shops and small markets.

What you need to know about shopping in this country

As in any eastern country, buying goods is a game, and without bargaining the game is of no interest to either the buyer or the seller. A foreigner may be quoted a deliberately high price, but if you have learned a few words from my list and are familiar with the culture of the East, then bargaining will help you reduce the price, and sometimes even several times.

In local small shops, guests are offered tea and sweets absolutely free of charge, and during the selection process you can hear interesting stories from seasoned sellers of ancient treasures.

The range of souvenirs that are worth bringing from Azerbaijan is very wide: from loose aromatic spices to national slippers, from tea bowls to carpets, from ceramics and leather goods to real black caviar. More about them below.

Best cities for shopping

The best cities for shopping are Baku, Sheki and Lahij.

I tend to buy few souvenirs and usually choose inexpensive and memorable crafts that do not take up much space, can be used in everyday life and, of course, the choice falls only on those things that are filled with memories of this country. But there are also travelers for whom shopping is boutiques.

The infrastructure of Baku will also pleasantly please parents:

• It’s a pleasure to walk along the long embankment with a stroller,
• there are children's entertainment centers in shopping centers,
• and on the city streets there are playgrounds for the little ones.

As always, if you're traveling with children, be sure to bring what you're used to, especially medications.

You can easily find diapers and baby food in stores in Azerbaijan.

Safety

Azerbaijan in general and Baku in particular are quite safe. The capital is well patrolled and well lit. The crime rate in the country is very low. Of course, you shouldn’t lose your head and forget about all the existing precautions. Behave with restraint and respect, do not be afraid of the locals, and almost 100% that nothing will happen to you.

Girls can also easily travel around Azerbaijan, but sometimes they may feel slight discomfort because, in principle, this is not accepted in this part of the world and therefore causes surprise.

Remember that what is normal behavior for us can be perceived as coquetry in the conservative East. I have only encountered respectful behavior, and although sometimes you can receive a cryptic offer, it all depends on you: if you behave with dignity, then the Azerbaijanis will never take violent actions.

at (1 hour 10 minutes and 80 USD);

V Tehran(1.5 hours and 60 USD).

Money

The national currency of Azerbaijan is manat (AZN).

For 1 AZN they give about 0.6 USD.

The largest bill is 100 AZN, which is equal to approximately 60 USD or 50 EUR.

Cash euros, dollars and rubles can be exchanged at numerous currency exchange offices. Of course, as elsewhere, we must remember that the most unfavorable exchange rate is found at airports, train stations and tourist places.

Exchange offices offer a higher rate for dollars and euros; the direct exchange rate for the ruble is slightly lower.